Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Car Audio Build Logs
Volvo S60 build resurrected! Old School!
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="americannight" data-source="post: 7918968" data-attributes="member: 624648"><p>Yep, they have a store on ebay too. If you call their 800 number they'll give you a small discount vs. the ebay or website pricing which was a nice surprise. Obviously if money were no object I would foot the bill for dynamat. There seems to be a proliferation of discount products out there such as GT Mat. What seemed legit about this product is they make very reasonable claims if you watch their videos on the website. We'll see how it goes. So far I'm impressed with their personable service. I also have been reading the sound deadener showdown website and seems to me from what I am reading there that good results can be had with any product of reasonably good quality if you strategically place the deadener where it will do the most good. Also use of other types of sound proofing materials as described on that site seems to be a good idea such as the CLF foam, etc. Here's some pictures of this weekends progress so far. I've mainly been spending time on the second fiberglass amp panel. The fleece is drying now under the lamps as I take the time to post this. One of the more time consuming things was just in getting the amp enclosure mounted so it looks symmetrical with the other side. I don't think I got it 100% perfect but it does look good to the eye and seems about 90% symmetrical. As I noted above, the trunk itself is not perfectly symmetrical, the panels are different. So this is to be expected. I think it looks good to the naked eye. If someone gets out a protractor on me, they'll probably find something to nit pick.</p><p></p><p>One thing I learned on this panel by using a thinner fleece the resin did soak in easier as I had hoped. However I did note that once the resin soaks in, it loosened the rubber cement I used to tack down the fleece. So it started to pull away around the edges of the amp enclosure. Luckily it was not enough to completely come loose, however, it does make it so I will need to use some body filler and sanding to make those edges nice and straight.</p><p></p><p>Also I tried my hand at patching up a couple areas on the first amp enclosure. I trimmed back a couple corners to make it fit better in the trunk and then patched those areas with fleece from the inside. I hit that fleece with the resin and once it dries, I will patch with body filler and sand smooth.</p><p></p><p>If you look at the middle picture here, you can see how these will fit in the trunk. The subwoofer enclosure will go between the two amp pods with the woofers firing back. I wanted to wait until the amp pods were done so that I can design an enclosure that is both removable, fitting between that area, but also can get a fiberglass baffle which fits seamlessly between the two pods to create a custom look that is at the same time functional with the sub enclosure being removable in case I need to haul something.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.theamericannight.com/images/trunk%20panel%207.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.theamericannight.com/images/trunk%20panel%208.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.theamericannight.com/images/trunk%20panel%209.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="americannight, post: 7918968, member: 624648"] Yep, they have a store on ebay too. If you call their 800 number they'll give you a small discount vs. the ebay or website pricing which was a nice surprise. Obviously if money were no object I would foot the bill for dynamat. There seems to be a proliferation of discount products out there such as GT Mat. What seemed legit about this product is they make very reasonable claims if you watch their videos on the website. We'll see how it goes. So far I'm impressed with their personable service. I also have been reading the sound deadener showdown website and seems to me from what I am reading there that good results can be had with any product of reasonably good quality if you strategically place the deadener where it will do the most good. Also use of other types of sound proofing materials as described on that site seems to be a good idea such as the CLF foam, etc. Here's some pictures of this weekends progress so far. I've mainly been spending time on the second fiberglass amp panel. The fleece is drying now under the lamps as I take the time to post this. One of the more time consuming things was just in getting the amp enclosure mounted so it looks symmetrical with the other side. I don't think I got it 100% perfect but it does look good to the eye and seems about 90% symmetrical. As I noted above, the trunk itself is not perfectly symmetrical, the panels are different. So this is to be expected. I think it looks good to the naked eye. If someone gets out a protractor on me, they'll probably find something to nit pick. One thing I learned on this panel by using a thinner fleece the resin did soak in easier as I had hoped. However I did note that once the resin soaks in, it loosened the rubber cement I used to tack down the fleece. So it started to pull away around the edges of the amp enclosure. Luckily it was not enough to completely come loose, however, it does make it so I will need to use some body filler and sanding to make those edges nice and straight. Also I tried my hand at patching up a couple areas on the first amp enclosure. I trimmed back a couple corners to make it fit better in the trunk and then patched those areas with fleece from the inside. I hit that fleece with the resin and once it dries, I will patch with body filler and sand smooth. If you look at the middle picture here, you can see how these will fit in the trunk. The subwoofer enclosure will go between the two amp pods with the woofers firing back. I wanted to wait until the amp pods were done so that I can design an enclosure that is both removable, fitting between that area, but also can get a fiberglass baffle which fits seamlessly between the two pods to create a custom look that is at the same time functional with the sub enclosure being removable in case I need to haul something. [IMG]http://www.theamericannight.com/images/trunk%20panel%207.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.theamericannight.com/images/trunk%20panel%208.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.theamericannight.com/images/trunk%20panel%209.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Car Audio Build Logs
Volvo S60 build resurrected! Old School!
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh