Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Join
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Car Audio Build Logs
Volvo C70 convertible sound system build log
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="ducatipaso" data-source="post: 8240468" data-attributes="member: 644396"><p>Well as for the C70's gauges, the ones on my C70 are basic and the water temp gauge has no numbers. The turbocharged 5 cylinder engine in my Volvo can make 300hp reliably with the right mods. My C70 is a 190HP low pressure turbo &amp; the high pressure model makes like 235 ish HP. So with some modes my C70 can make more power reliably and then I would need to keep track of the motor. A 300HP stick shift convertible with a system and some suspension mods would be a fun &amp; quick street car.</p><p></p><p>Many people would use a air fuel ratio gauge but I was thinking about using a digital voltmeter gauge hooked to the O2 sensor as a air fuel ratio gauge because I am just kind of strange like that.</p><p></p><p>I went to the pawnshop today to pickup some tools I had on layaway and just look at the audio equipment { for the third or forth time now} out of curiosity I asked what the three subs sitting on a top shelf were and one of them was a 12" JL W3. It wasn't in a box but it was in very good condition.</p><p></p><p>The guy that was showing me the subs I've know for years and he has or had a GSXR. Just so that I could remember how a single JL 12 sounds he turned on their JL test sub that they use to test amps. its in a big vented box, then he hooked up a W3 in a small sealed box and kicker comp 12 in a small vented box. The subs were being powered by a Memphis amp.</p><p></p><p>The dude gave me a great price on the W3 but I wanted to think about it for a minute and went next door to the tool shop. While thinking about the sub I figured I might as well try to do a package deal and buy some amps. I've been eying some JL amps for awhile - they came for sale {out of pawn years ago when I was working their} a JL 500/1 &amp; a JL 450/4v2.</p><p></p><p>When I looked at the audio equipment a second time I took my time and really looked at the amps, I asked about a price for the JL W3 and the JL amps and another package deal with two Polk MOMO carbon fiber series amps. a 500/1 &amp; a 975watt four channel. The JL package was more then I wanted to spend so I went with the Polk MOMO amps and the JL W3</p><p></p><p>My plan is to run the 8"s in my doors and the 8"s behind &amp; built into the rear seat off the four channel. and run the W3 off the 500/1. The factory sound system has a four channel 400watt alpine amp, and the subs in the doors are 8 ohm and so are the 4 inch mids so they are wired parallel thru the competent speaker cross overs.</p><p></p><p>Some how their is a center channel and two 6.5 on the sides behind the front seats. I don't know if the center channel is run off the head unit &amp; I don't know were the tweets receive signal from yet? it might be form the cross over in the doors, I need to trace the wires.</p><p></p><p>So I am planning to run some quality 4 ohm 4" mids in the doors and then figure out how to run two mini subs in the a/c dash vent area and run some tweets in the dash. When I out-grow the factory dolby pro-logic hu and upgrade, I might replace the factory alpine amp because it doesn't have RCA's &amp; has no adjustments.</p><p></p><p>I didn't plan on putting any audio equipment on layaway and I was really leaning towards a 15" sub but the 12" W3 &amp; Polk amps are a big step forward in building my system.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ducatipaso, post: 8240468, member: 644396"] Well as for the C70's gauges, the ones on my C70 are basic and the water temp gauge has no numbers. The turbocharged 5 cylinder engine in my Volvo can make 300hp reliably with the right mods. My C70 is a 190HP low pressure turbo & the high pressure model makes like 235 ish HP. So with some modes my C70 can make more power reliably and then I would need to keep track of the motor. A 300HP stick shift convertible with a system and some suspension mods would be a fun & quick street car. Many people would use a air fuel ratio gauge but I was thinking about using a digital voltmeter gauge hooked to the O2 sensor as a air fuel ratio gauge because I am just kind of strange like that. I went to the pawnshop today to pickup some tools I had on layaway and just look at the audio equipment { for the third or forth time now} out of curiosity I asked what the three subs sitting on a top shelf were and one of them was a 12" JL W3. It wasn't in a box but it was in very good condition. The guy that was showing me the subs I've know for years and he has or had a GSXR. Just so that I could remember how a single JL 12 sounds he turned on their JL test sub that they use to test amps. its in a big vented box, then he hooked up a W3 in a small sealed box and kicker comp 12 in a small vented box. The subs were being powered by a Memphis amp. The dude gave me a great price on the W3 but I wanted to think about it for a minute and went next door to the tool shop. While thinking about the sub I figured I might as well try to do a package deal and buy some amps. I've been eying some JL amps for awhile - they came for sale {out of pawn years ago when I was working their} a JL 500/1 & a JL 450/4v2. When I looked at the audio equipment a second time I took my time and really looked at the amps, I asked about a price for the JL W3 and the JL amps and another package deal with two Polk MOMO carbon fiber series amps. a 500/1 & a 975watt four channel. The JL package was more then I wanted to spend so I went with the Polk MOMO amps and the JL W3 My plan is to run the 8"s in my doors and the 8"s behind & built into the rear seat off the four channel. and run the W3 off the 500/1. The factory sound system has a four channel 400watt alpine amp, and the subs in the doors are 8 ohm and so are the 4 inch mids so they are wired parallel thru the competent speaker cross overs. Some how their is a center channel and two 6.5 on the sides behind the front seats. I don't know if the center channel is run off the head unit & I don't know were the tweets receive signal from yet? it might be form the cross over in the doors, I need to trace the wires. So I am planning to run some quality 4 ohm 4" mids in the doors and then figure out how to run two mini subs in the a/c dash vent area and run some tweets in the dash. When I out-grow the factory dolby pro-logic hu and upgrade, I might replace the factory alpine amp because it doesn't have RCA's & has no adjustments. I didn't plan on putting any audio equipment on layaway and I was really leaning towards a 15" sub but the 12" W3 & Polk amps are a big step forward in building my system. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Car Audio Build Logs
Volvo C70 convertible sound system build log
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh