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Volvo C70 convertible sound system build log
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<blockquote data-quote="ducatipaso" data-source="post: 8238205" data-attributes="member: 644396"><p>I removed the black wing-lets from the wing and noticed a difference in aerodynamics becasue the rear of my C70 turned easier and I felt less resistance at the steering wheel when changing lanes. I will make some wing-lets that match the contour / profile of the convertible top &amp; the window molding.</p><p></p><p>I am really looking for more sound quality then out right spl. My plan is to mount the big tweeter in the dash &amp; fire it back towards the driver and passenger with the mentioned mini subs on each side. I have some suspension and engine mods planned so I am going to ditch the pop-up roll bars behind the back seat and build a full cage.</p><p></p><p>Removing the pop-up roll bars will increase the size available for the rear sub enclosures - a set of 8's in the factory locations or any average size subs. The space to be gained is about 14" x 10" x 3.5" times 2 "one roll bar on each side". I am putting a great deal of thought into the design of my roll cage but one thing is clear, the front bars for the front hoop will be going down thru the tweeter holes in the dash.</p><p></p><p>So I want to recess a small tweeter at ear level in each bar &amp; aim them at the driver and passengers ears but that is a year or so down the road.</p><p></p><p>As for sound damping I thought about factory sound damping sheets &amp; dynamat and said to myself that is just a sheet of asphalt. Tar paper for a roof is like a sheet of asphalt and shingles, well shingles almost are a sheet of asphalt. So I went and purchased a pack of shingles, some thin pink foam isolation that was in a big roll and the to top it off some roofing cement. on the label it said trowel grade or trowel ready &amp; it was the only roofing cement for vertical applications.</p><p></p><p>After I tint the windows on my C70 I will protect the fresh tint with some masking paper and then remove the doors and put them fender stands. my plan is to clean the inside of the doors with paint thinner and prep the surface really well. Then I have 3/4 of gallon of concert etch that I have left form when I used it to prep the gas tank of my Suzuki Bandit 1200 for a coat of tank sealer.</p><p></p><p>{just so you know} if the etch is poured on raw aluminum it will leave a deep dark gray coating / stain on the aluminum but anyway I will prep the doors with a coat of etch and let that dry after I wipe off the excess. Then I will do some calculating as to the curves &amp; shapes of the insides of the doors, how to cut and position shingles and mask off everything I want to protect from the roofing cement.</p><p></p><p>Then I will brush over the shingles with a wire brush to remove any loose materiel and put them in the powder coating oven a phew at a time to warm them, {its 20 or 30 deg} then with rubber gloves and a spreader / trowel I will put a layer of the roofing cement on the inside of the doors. and then a very thin coat on the shingles and put them into position. I will do what ever looks best so their might be some over lap.</p><p></p><p>I think I will leave a inch or so space at the edges, then I will apply a even coat of roofing cement over the whole shingle covered area, then I will lay a double layer of the foam and stick it to the layer of roofing cement. I will let the doors sit for 24 or so hours on the fender stands to they are 180 degrees from their normal position so the cement can cure and seal.</p><p></p><p>I spent like $65 at Home Depot. The main thing that I am worried about is masking off everything I don't want to get the roofing cement on. The shingles &amp; roofing cement will deaden &amp; provide a degree of dampening. The foam will dampen and give the speakers sounds waves a softer cushion to absorbed into so they don't rebound &amp; clash with the movement of the cone.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ducatipaso, post: 8238205, member: 644396"] I removed the black wing-lets from the wing and noticed a difference in aerodynamics becasue the rear of my C70 turned easier and I felt less resistance at the steering wheel when changing lanes. I will make some wing-lets that match the contour / profile of the convertible top & the window molding. I am really looking for more sound quality then out right spl. My plan is to mount the big tweeter in the dash & fire it back towards the driver and passenger with the mentioned mini subs on each side. I have some suspension and engine mods planned so I am going to ditch the pop-up roll bars behind the back seat and build a full cage. Removing the pop-up roll bars will increase the size available for the rear sub enclosures - a set of 8's in the factory locations or any average size subs. The space to be gained is about 14" x 10" x 3.5" times 2 "one roll bar on each side". I am putting a great deal of thought into the design of my roll cage but one thing is clear, the front bars for the front hoop will be going down thru the tweeter holes in the dash. So I want to recess a small tweeter at ear level in each bar & aim them at the driver and passengers ears but that is a year or so down the road. As for sound damping I thought about factory sound damping sheets & dynamat and said to myself that is just a sheet of asphalt. Tar paper for a roof is like a sheet of asphalt and shingles, well shingles almost are a sheet of asphalt. So I went and purchased a pack of shingles, some thin pink foam isolation that was in a big roll and the to top it off some roofing cement. on the label it said trowel grade or trowel ready & it was the only roofing cement for vertical applications. After I tint the windows on my C70 I will protect the fresh tint with some masking paper and then remove the doors and put them fender stands. my plan is to clean the inside of the doors with paint thinner and prep the surface really well. Then I have 3/4 of gallon of concert etch that I have left form when I used it to prep the gas tank of my Suzuki Bandit 1200 for a coat of tank sealer. {just so you know} if the etch is poured on raw aluminum it will leave a deep dark gray coating / stain on the aluminum but anyway I will prep the doors with a coat of etch and let that dry after I wipe off the excess. Then I will do some calculating as to the curves & shapes of the insides of the doors, how to cut and position shingles and mask off everything I want to protect from the roofing cement. Then I will brush over the shingles with a wire brush to remove any loose materiel and put them in the powder coating oven a phew at a time to warm them, {its 20 or 30 deg} then with rubber gloves and a spreader / trowel I will put a layer of the roofing cement on the inside of the doors. and then a very thin coat on the shingles and put them into position. I will do what ever looks best so their might be some over lap. I think I will leave a inch or so space at the edges, then I will apply a even coat of roofing cement over the whole shingle covered area, then I will lay a double layer of the foam and stick it to the layer of roofing cement. I will let the doors sit for 24 or so hours on the fender stands to they are 180 degrees from their normal position so the cement can cure and seal. I spent like $65 at Home Depot. The main thing that I am worried about is masking off everything I don't want to get the roofing cement on. The shingles & roofing cement will deaden & provide a degree of dampening. The foam will dampen and give the speakers sounds waves a softer cushion to absorbed into so they don't rebound & clash with the movement of the cone. [/QUOTE]
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