Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Head Units
volts?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="HCCA" data-source="post: 5292489" data-attributes="member: 571196"><p>Sorry, but I call B.S.!! What do you mean, "If there is no noise in the environment"? When you clip a clean signal...there's your noise! I will absolutely guarantee that ANY head unit that derives a 2v signal from the 12Vs in your charging system, and does not use a switching power supply to step up the voltage for a 4-8v output WILL clip. There is just no arguing that point, IT IS A FACT. PERIOD! Pick any head unit you want. I don't care what the brand name is. If it has a 2V output, it will clip the signal at full volume (from the output of the head unit). Doesn't matter what gain matching you do from there. You can match your gains til the cows come home. They can be matched, but the signal is already clipped!!!!</p><p></p><p>As I posted previously, there might be little to no noise picked up in the signal transmission lines between components. However, there are many vehicles that DO! In those cases, the noise picked up along the way WILL BE amplified along with the musical information. You turn the gains up to amplify the signal...you amplify the noise at the same time. It can't be avoided. So YOUR system is clean...contratulations. Some people a blessed....others aren't so lucky. BUT, it is a fact that the car audio environment is a noisy one. I don't think anyone will argue that. As such, most people will use <strong>ALL</strong> means at their disposal to fight noise. Some might not need anything. Hey...great! Some might need all the help they can get to combat noise.</p><p></p><p>On the other hand, are we talking about 60db of alt whine through the speakers at min volume? Or, are we talking about 10 db of hiss, on a quiet track at 3/4 volume. The difference is great, but the source might still be the same. Induced noise through the transmission lines! The higher the output voltage, the more noise can be rejected. It's like this... If you have .012v of noise picked up in your transmission lines, with an average signal voltage of 1 volt at normal listen levels...that's less than 10-1 signal to noise (picked up through the lines, not referenceing the inherent S/N ration of the head unit). Add to THAT, you have to turn up the amp gains!!!!</p><p></p><p>Conversely, if that noise is constant, you use a 5V unit. That same listening level would be closer to 2.5V, at normal listening level. The noise would still be .012V. That's almost 20-1 ratio of signal to noise. PLUS, now you can keep you amp gains all the way down, and not amplify the noise by turning up your gains.</p><p></p><p>And, further still...what has not been covered through all this...output impedance. That is the better focus of noise rejection. The old Pioneer m-88 had like...4 ohms output impedance. THAT'S what SHOULD be focused on more than anything. 0 ohms would be ideal. Obviously, 0 ohms would be effectively a dead short, and you can't generate a voltage across a dead short. 4 ohms would be great. 1000 ohms...not so great. 10,000 ohms...well...that's as good as an antenna to reach out and grab noise!!</p><p></p><p>However, a switching power supply to get a clean, UNCLIPPED signal is still better than a 2V, with 10% distortion at full volume...ANY DAY OF THE WEEK!!!</p><p></p><p>Read above.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="HCCA, post: 5292489, member: 571196"] Sorry, but I call B.S.!! What do you mean, "If there is no noise in the environment"? When you clip a clean signal...there's your noise! I will absolutely guarantee that ANY head unit that derives a 2v signal from the 12Vs in your charging system, and does not use a switching power supply to step up the voltage for a 4-8v output WILL clip. There is just no arguing that point, IT IS A FACT. PERIOD! Pick any head unit you want. I don't care what the brand name is. If it has a 2V output, it will clip the signal at full volume (from the output of the head unit). Doesn't matter what gain matching you do from there. You can match your gains til the cows come home. They can be matched, but the signal is already clipped!!!! As I posted previously, there might be little to no noise picked up in the signal transmission lines between components. However, there are many vehicles that DO! In those cases, the noise picked up along the way WILL BE amplified along with the musical information. You turn the gains up to amplify the signal...you amplify the noise at the same time. It can't be avoided. So YOUR system is clean...contratulations. Some people a blessed....others aren't so lucky. BUT, it is a fact that the car audio environment is a noisy one. I don't think anyone will argue that. As such, most people will use [B]ALL[/B] means at their disposal to fight noise. Some might not need anything. Hey...great! Some might need all the help they can get to combat noise. On the other hand, are we talking about 60db of alt whine through the speakers at min volume? Or, are we talking about 10 db of hiss, on a quiet track at 3/4 volume. The difference is great, but the source might still be the same. Induced noise through the transmission lines! The higher the output voltage, the more noise can be rejected. It's like this... If you have .012v of noise picked up in your transmission lines, with an average signal voltage of 1 volt at normal listen levels...that's less than 10-1 signal to noise (picked up through the lines, not referenceing the inherent S/N ration of the head unit). Add to THAT, you have to turn up the amp gains!!!! Conversely, if that noise is constant, you use a 5V unit. That same listening level would be closer to 2.5V, at normal listening level. The noise would still be .012V. That's almost 20-1 ratio of signal to noise. PLUS, now you can keep you amp gains all the way down, and not amplify the noise by turning up your gains. And, further still...what has not been covered through all this...output impedance. That is the better focus of noise rejection. The old Pioneer m-88 had like...4 ohms output impedance. THAT'S what SHOULD be focused on more than anything. 0 ohms would be ideal. Obviously, 0 ohms would be effectively a dead short, and you can't generate a voltage across a dead short. 4 ohms would be great. 1000 ohms...not so great. 10,000 ohms...well...that's as good as an antenna to reach out and grab noise!! However, a switching power supply to get a clean, UNCLIPPED signal is still better than a 2V, with 10% distortion at full volume...ANY DAY OF THE WEEK!!! Read above. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Head Units
volts?
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list
