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Volksawgon GTi doorpod rebuild IDQ8D4 IB
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<blockquote data-quote="req" data-source="post: 6412073" data-attributes="member: 555713"><p>i installed a new (longer + better quality) optical cable and re-routed some wires and put some more zipties where they should have been for the last 2 years. i didnt get any pics of that, its just wires - so im sure its no big deal.</p><p></p><p>and then i re-wired my subwoofer wiring. i have an IB setup and the wires on the bottom were re-wired to a single 2 ohm load (idqv2d2 x 2) from a previous pair of 1 ohm loads and i had to do it on the fly so i cut some wires and spliced and it was not pretty. so i took some wire i had laying around and some heatshrink, techflex, and solder... then redid all the wires.</p><p></p><p>the best part is that i tucked the wires in the reverse-flushmount groove around the basket so its all stealth wire! i cant believe i didnt think of doing it that way before. im stolked at how it looks. heres some cellphone pics!!!</p><p></p><p><img src="http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/651/subwires1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/5649/subwires2.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>sorry it took so long.</p><p></p><p>i ordered some flushmount MDF baffles for the IDQ8s from g0a on diymobieaudio.com so that i could get them upon my return from key west, and there was a diameter calculation error, so i had to get them remade. this is why it took so much extra time.</p><p></p><p>i apologize for not getting pictures of the mounting of the MDF rings, i just used chopsticks you can get for free at any asian food place (or maybe a few bucks for a handful) and i only used 2 packs of them for this project. break them (i used dykes) for the correct length you need and use CA glue and accelerator to get them in place. i recommend CA glue over hot-glue because hot-glue is NOT sandable and is NOT a good combination with any sort of epoxy (fiberglass resin). CA glue acts just like super fast drying epoxy, so its a great tool.</p><p></p><p>then i stretched purple fabric i got at Jo-Anne Fabrics that is really super thin and stretches quite a lot in 4 directions. this is super important. stretching stage will make your contours come out nice and solid, make sure you stretch it HARD, like almost enough to rip the cloth. the harder you stretch the less amount of sagging you will get with you apply resin.</p><p></p><p>and i glue about 1~2 inches at a time while i stretch.start on a long side of your project on the rear-mould that you made, glue 1" section along the edge and stretch the cloth HARD to the opposite side and glue 1" section there - not along the back, but right on the edge of the rear mould. then rotate and repeat until the whole edge is glued. then cut the excess off //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</p><p></p><p>super easy.</p><p></p><p>heres pics.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/5127/ciddownsized10070918429.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/4485/ciddownsized10070918399.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/2535/cid1007091841a8992049.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/1335/cid10070918408930707.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/8868/cid1007091840a8962398.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>heres some random ones, my 120gb zune with my ghetto aux input (using #1 analog input on the pxa-h701)</p><p></p><p><img src="http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/2607/cid10070918418974495.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="req, post: 6412073, member: 555713"] i installed a new (longer + better quality) optical cable and re-routed some wires and put some more zipties where they should have been for the last 2 years. i didnt get any pics of that, its just wires - so im sure its no big deal. and then i re-wired my subwoofer wiring. i have an IB setup and the wires on the bottom were re-wired to a single 2 ohm load (idqv2d2 x 2) from a previous pair of 1 ohm loads and i had to do it on the fly so i cut some wires and spliced and it was not pretty. so i took some wire i had laying around and some heatshrink, techflex, and solder... then redid all the wires. the best part is that i tucked the wires in the reverse-flushmount groove around the basket so its all stealth wire! i cant believe i didnt think of doing it that way before. im stolked at how it looks. heres some cellphone pics!!! [IMG]http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/651/subwires1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/5649/subwires2.jpg[/IMG] sorry it took so long. i ordered some flushmount MDF baffles for the IDQ8s from g0a on diymobieaudio.com so that i could get them upon my return from key west, and there was a diameter calculation error, so i had to get them remade. this is why it took so much extra time. i apologize for not getting pictures of the mounting of the MDF rings, i just used chopsticks you can get for free at any asian food place (or maybe a few bucks for a handful) and i only used 2 packs of them for this project. break them (i used dykes) for the correct length you need and use CA glue and accelerator to get them in place. i recommend CA glue over hot-glue because hot-glue is NOT sandable and is NOT a good combination with any sort of epoxy (fiberglass resin). CA glue acts just like super fast drying epoxy, so its a great tool. then i stretched purple fabric i got at Jo-Anne Fabrics that is really super thin and stretches quite a lot in 4 directions. this is super important. stretching stage will make your contours come out nice and solid, make sure you stretch it HARD, like almost enough to rip the cloth. the harder you stretch the less amount of sagging you will get with you apply resin. and i glue about 1~2 inches at a time while i stretch.start on a long side of your project on the rear-mould that you made, glue 1" section along the edge and stretch the cloth HARD to the opposite side and glue 1" section there - not along the back, but right on the edge of the rear mould. then rotate and repeat until the whole edge is glued. then cut the excess off [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] super easy. heres pics. [IMG]http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/5127/ciddownsized10070918429.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/4485/ciddownsized10070918399.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/2535/cid1007091841a8992049.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/1335/cid10070918408930707.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/8868/cid1007091840a8962398.jpg[/IMG] heres some random ones, my 120gb zune with my ghetto aux input (using #1 analog input on the pxa-h701) [IMG]http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/2607/cid10070918418974495.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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Volksawgon GTi doorpod rebuild IDQ8D4 IB
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