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Upgraded speakers and subwoofer
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<blockquote data-quote="DRBOOM" data-source="post: 8663714" data-attributes="member: 676005"><p>Hey mate, thanks for posting your situation here! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite6" alt=":cool:" title="Cool :cool:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":cool:" /></p><p></p><p>So you have a decent head unit so that is a good start. Find out your speaker size before you go shopping for speakers. Highly recommend to get component speakers that fit your front stage. Secondly, you will need to purchase</p><p></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">4 gauge wiring kit as they are sufficient in most daily driving needs;<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Sound deadening,,,any would do as having some is better then none;<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">a 4 channel amplifier with variable cross over points, bass boost, subsonic filter, separate gain for front and back;<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">a single 10 or 12 inch subwoofer in a sealed box ( depending how much space you are willing to sacrifice in your trunk area;<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">if you plan to do the install yourself then you need to educate yourself on door speaker replacement / sound deadening;<br /> </li> </ul><p>This is what you have to do to get it going;</p><p></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Using the 4 gauge amp kit run 2 pairs of RCA's, and a blue trigger wire to the trunk of your car; (run from passenger side)<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Run new speaker wires from trunk area to the back of your Alpine unit (from passenger side to the trunk area. leave sufficient wiring length)<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Run a power positive wire from battery to the rear of the car, ensure it is fused within 12 - 18 inches from the battery and remove fuse as this will go last)<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Open front door panels to replace the stock speakers, you may have to spice the stock wires to attach new speakers - clean inside and outer panels with a damp rag, then wipe it clean with mentholated spirits / alcohol - then apply sound deadening sparingly in palm size cuttings. (knock on the outer panel to see it does not ring)<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Once the inner panel (outer door curved panel is done, then apply foam sound deadening to cover the recess large holes on the door. Leave space to install your new speakers, and run new wires to the tweeters. Attached the component speakers crossovers on the outer panel or even inside your plastic door panel as water seeps into the doors over time and causes corrosion to the crossovers( you will have to determine where you can place it on the plastic door trim.<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Splice the stock speaker wires and wire it up to checking the connection and correct wiring (woofer / tweeter/ input). Apply solder, heat shrink to speaker/ tweeters before installing them in place.<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Leave the plastic door panels unattached until you wire your amplifier.<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Place your 4 channel amp on a 0.5 inch plywood or panel, leaving 1/2 inch on all sides for installation purpose. You can apply carpet if you have it lying around<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Attached front and rear pair of RCA's ( tag them before you run them to the back of the car)<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">attach speaker wires to the two pairs of speaker wires running from behind the head unit to the FRONT speaker outputs;<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Attach your prefab subwoofer box to the rear speaker outputs in "bridged' mode. Check your subwoofers impedence before your purchase it, go for a single 4 ohm subwoofer;<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Use the rear seat mounting point to run your ground wire, take it out and sand it to get proper ground contact, spice 1/2 inch and attach the lug with chrimping tool or hammer, or pair of pliers and ensure good contact, apply solder and heat shrink to the terminal before securing it to the stock rear seat mounting point.<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Connect your positive power wire to the battery, but don't put the fuse in yet.<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Open front panel to access the rear of your alpine unit. Attach the RCA'S to front and rear inputs ( or buy high to low converter if your unit does not have them)<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Connect the blue remote wire to the remote antenna wire (it should be label, usually blue with white stripe)<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Go back to your amp to see all the gains are set at low and secure the amp using Velcro to the trunk floor or find a spot to secure the amp to the speaker box, you will need to secure your subwoofer box if so it does not move when you drive. One way to secure subwoofer box is to remove stock board over the spare wheel and install 4x2 inch timber using liquid nails to the floor panel. Give it 12 hours to cure then using L brackets, secure your subwoofer box after placing the stock flimsy board back in the boot area. do this to mount your amplifier as well.<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Insert the fuse in the positive battery power wire and turn your head unit on. if your head unit has built in high pass / low pass filters then use them. Turn the source unit 3/4 volume then go to the rear of the car to customise your sound.<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Run your front stage on high pass so if anyone ever changes the settings, your front speakers have some protection, set it at 80hz and then adjust the gain up until it distorts then back off.<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Do the same with your subwoofer as well. You may need a mate to adjust the gain when you sit in the drivers seat to see the subwoofer gain blends in well with your front stage.<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Use of bass boost is an option depending on your 'bass' needs<br /> <br /> </li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Hope this is helpful to you mate!<br /> </li> </ul><p></p><p></p><p>Let us know how you go with it all!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DRBOOM, post: 8663714, member: 676005"] Hey mate, thanks for posting your situation here! :cool: So you have a decent head unit so that is a good start. Find out your speaker size before you go shopping for speakers. Highly recommend to get component speakers that fit your front stage. Secondly, you will need to purchase [LIST][*]4 gauge wiring kit as they are sufficient in most daily driving needs; [*]Sound deadening,,,any would do as having some is better then none; [*]a 4 channel amplifier with variable cross over points, bass boost, subsonic filter, separate gain for front and back; [*]a single 10 or 12 inch subwoofer in a sealed box ( depending how much space you are willing to sacrifice in your trunk area; [*]if you plan to do the install yourself then you need to educate yourself on door speaker replacement / sound deadening; [/LIST] This is what you have to do to get it going; [LIST][*]Using the 4 gauge amp kit run 2 pairs of RCA's, and a blue trigger wire to the trunk of your car; (run from passenger side) [*]Run new speaker wires from trunk area to the back of your Alpine unit (from passenger side to the trunk area. leave sufficient wiring length) [*]Run a power positive wire from battery to the rear of the car, ensure it is fused within 12 - 18 inches from the battery and remove fuse as this will go last) [*]Open front door panels to replace the stock speakers, you may have to spice the stock wires to attach new speakers - clean inside and outer panels with a damp rag, then wipe it clean with mentholated spirits / alcohol - then apply sound deadening sparingly in palm size cuttings. (knock on the outer panel to see it does not ring) [*]Once the inner panel (outer door curved panel is done, then apply foam sound deadening to cover the recess large holes on the door. Leave space to install your new speakers, and run new wires to the tweeters. Attached the component speakers crossovers on the outer panel or even inside your plastic door panel as water seeps into the doors over time and causes corrosion to the crossovers( you will have to determine where you can place it on the plastic door trim. [*]Splice the stock speaker wires and wire it up to checking the connection and correct wiring (woofer / tweeter/ input). Apply solder, heat shrink to speaker/ tweeters before installing them in place. [*]Leave the plastic door panels unattached until you wire your amplifier. [*]Place your 4 channel amp on a 0.5 inch plywood or panel, leaving 1/2 inch on all sides for installation purpose. You can apply carpet if you have it lying around [*]Attached front and rear pair of RCA's ( tag them before you run them to the back of the car) [*]attach speaker wires to the two pairs of speaker wires running from behind the head unit to the FRONT speaker outputs; [*]Attach your prefab subwoofer box to the rear speaker outputs in "bridged' mode. Check your subwoofers impedence before your purchase it, go for a single 4 ohm subwoofer; [*]Use the rear seat mounting point to run your ground wire, take it out and sand it to get proper ground contact, spice 1/2 inch and attach the lug with chrimping tool or hammer, or pair of pliers and ensure good contact, apply solder and heat shrink to the terminal before securing it to the stock rear seat mounting point. [*]Connect your positive power wire to the battery, but don't put the fuse in yet. [*]Open front panel to access the rear of your alpine unit. Attach the RCA'S to front and rear inputs ( or buy high to low converter if your unit does not have them) [*]Connect the blue remote wire to the remote antenna wire (it should be label, usually blue with white stripe) [*]Go back to your amp to see all the gains are set at low and secure the amp using Velcro to the trunk floor or find a spot to secure the amp to the speaker box, you will need to secure your subwoofer box if so it does not move when you drive. One way to secure subwoofer box is to remove stock board over the spare wheel and install 4x2 inch timber using liquid nails to the floor panel. Give it 12 hours to cure then using L brackets, secure your subwoofer box after placing the stock flimsy board back in the boot area. do this to mount your amplifier as well. [*]Insert the fuse in the positive battery power wire and turn your head unit on. if your head unit has built in high pass / low pass filters then use them. Turn the source unit 3/4 volume then go to the rear of the car to customise your sound. [*]Run your front stage on high pass so if anyone ever changes the settings, your front speakers have some protection, set it at 80hz and then adjust the gain up until it distorts then back off. [*]Do the same with your subwoofer as well. You may need a mate to adjust the gain when you sit in the drivers seat to see the subwoofer gain blends in well with your front stage. [*]Use of bass boost is an option depending on your 'bass' needs [*]Hope this is helpful to you mate! [/LIST] Let us know how you go with it all! [/QUOTE]
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