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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 7867062" data-attributes="member: 576029">yes, we are using the crossovers so he can run the rears.&nbsp; T/A on his rears adjust and depth the height of the sound stage.&nbsp; they are ran bandpass.&nbsp; the passive crossovers are really nice with the MLK, they add filters to help the tweeter overall.&nbsp; i recommend you do the following before you try swapping.1.&nbsp; go back to running passive but now bridge the amp for 4x as much power.2.&nbsp; don&#039;t just deaden the doors - seal them.&nbsp; the link shows you how.&nbsp; do that and you&#039;ll gain midbass.&nbsp; we ran the MLK without sealing the holes (but with a lot of deadener) and midbass was lacking due to phase interference.&nbsp; the door panel rattled also.&nbsp; sealed the doors and wow, what a difference.&nbsp; foam around the front of the woofer to seal to the door panel is also key.&nbsp; midbass requires mass and seals.3.&nbsp; change how the tweeters are aimed and try to work in the deeper chamber.&nbsp; this will mean custom tweeter pods/spheres.&nbsp; the difference will be amazing and you&#039;ll get the smoothness you want.4. add deadener as required to control resonance and add 1/8&quot; CCF to control buzzes.buying different speakers is a waste of money until you get the vehicle treated acoustically.one thing that i have seen over 20 years is that speaker placement/aiming &amp;amp; airspace/enclosure (control of back wave) are vital to proper performance - regardless of how much you spend on them.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 7867062, member: 576029"] yes, we are using the crossovers so he can run the rears. T/A on his rears adjust and depth the height of the sound stage. they are ran bandpass. the passive crossovers are really nice with the MLK, they add filters to help the tweeter overall. i recommend you do the following before you try swapping. 1. go back to running passive but now bridge the amp for 4x as much power. 2. don't just deaden the doors - seal them. the link shows you how. do that and you'll gain midbass. we ran the MLK without sealing the holes (but with a lot of deadener) and midbass was lacking due to phase interference. the door panel rattled also. sealed the doors and wow, what a difference. foam around the front of the woofer to seal to the door panel is also key. midbass requires mass and seals. 3. change how the tweeters are aimed and try to work in the deeper chamber. this will mean custom tweeter pods/spheres. the difference will be amazing and you'll get the smoothness you want. 4. add deadener as required to control resonance and add 1/8" CCF to control buzzes. buying different speakers is a waste of money until you get the vehicle treated acoustically. one thing that i have seen over 20 years is that speaker placement/aiming & airspace/enclosure (control of back wave) are vital to proper performance - regardless of how much you spend on them. [/QUOTE]

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