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<blockquote data-quote="HardofWhoring" data-source="post: 8841047" data-attributes="member: 674149">RMS wattage is not 50% of peak.&nbsp;&nbsp; It works out that way pretty often, but that&#039;s never guaranteed.&nbsp;&nbsp; Even the OP&#039;s example is 60w RMS and 180W peak.&nbsp; PEAK is the measurement of the max wattage a speaker/amp can play for ONE SECOND with no consideration for THD (actual rating).&nbsp;&nbsp; It&#039;s useless, and just an irrelevant number that looks cool on the box.&nbsp; RMS is the measurement at 14.4v with no more than 1% THD @4 ohms.&nbsp;&nbsp; That is the CEA-2006 rating, and a pretty crappy rating, but it gives plenty of room for everyone to be on the same page.&nbsp; &nbsp; They should also do that rating at&nbsp; .1-.25% THD.&nbsp; I don&#039;t know where you got RMS voltage is 70% of peak.&nbsp; I&#039;ve never heard that.&nbsp;&nbsp; I know only 14.4v is the standardized rating, but 12V is engine off.&nbsp; &nbsp; 14.4v is 20% more than 12v, and not everyone is running stereos while driving in their vehicle.&nbsp;&nbsp; That&#039;s as close as I can get to that.&nbsp;&nbsp; We&#039;re pretty far apart on that right now.&nbsp;&nbsp; Maybe something has a different Ohm rating?&nbsp; The OP&#039;s question is nonsense.&nbsp;&nbsp; They got a few things confused and jumbled up.&nbsp;&nbsp; The square root is part of figuring out RMS.&nbsp;&nbsp; Root Mean Square.&nbsp;&nbsp; I know it enough to know I don&#039;t need to know it completely.&nbsp; That one still throws me off, but it&#039;s more or less the ideal median of how loud a speaker will get based on power input with no more than 1%THD, (usually a lot less than that, and I think they could adjust that number depending on how they wanted to market it).&nbsp; They can go louder with more power than RMS, but it&#039;s diminishing return, and you can cause more THD.&nbsp; &nbsp; If you had 15 batteries, and 10 alts, then then go ahead and put more in the speakers.&nbsp;&nbsp; When you are wrestling with will you need to add an extra battery or larger alt for a couple hundred watts, is that really worth it?&nbsp; &nbsp; Maybe there was another question to keep it going?&nbsp;&nbsp; I&#039;m not a professional, or educated in any way on technical aspects, just someone that learned the basics early on, and kept learning.&nbsp; Had a shop do mine a long time ago, and wanted to go punch em in the face when they &quot;finished&quot;.&nbsp;&nbsp; Redid all their crap, and vowed to not ever pay anyone again to do my stereo work.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="HardofWhoring, post: 8841047, member: 674149"] RMS wattage is not 50% of peak. It works out that way pretty often, but that's never guaranteed. Even the OP's example is 60w RMS and 180W peak. PEAK is the measurement of the max wattage a speaker/amp can play for ONE SECOND with no consideration for THD (actual rating). It's useless, and just an irrelevant number that looks cool on the box. RMS is the measurement at 14.4v with no more than 1% THD @4 ohms. That is the CEA-2006 rating, and a pretty crappy rating, but it gives plenty of room for everyone to be on the same page. They should also do that rating at .1-.25% THD. I don't know where you got RMS voltage is 70% of peak. I've never heard that. I know only 14.4v is the standardized rating, but 12V is engine off. 14.4v is 20% more than 12v, and not everyone is running stereos while driving in their vehicle. That's as close as I can get to that. We're pretty far apart on that right now. Maybe something has a different Ohm rating? The OP's question is nonsense. They got a few things confused and jumbled up. The square root is part of figuring out RMS. Root Mean Square. I know it enough to know I don't need to know it completely. That one still throws me off, but it's more or less the ideal median of how loud a speaker will get based on power input with no more than 1%THD, (usually a lot less than that, and I think they could adjust that number depending on how they wanted to market it). They can go louder with more power than RMS, but it's diminishing return, and you can cause more THD. If you had 15 batteries, and 10 alts, then then go ahead and put more in the speakers. When you are wrestling with will you need to add an extra battery or larger alt for a couple hundred watts, is that really worth it? Maybe there was another question to keep it going? I'm not a professional, or educated in any way on technical aspects, just someone that learned the basics early on, and kept learning. Had a shop do mine a long time ago, and wanted to go punch em in the face when they "finished". Redid all their crap, and vowed to not ever pay anyone again to do my stereo work. [/QUOTE]

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