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General Car Audio
tweeter extremes...which end of the spectrum to choose?
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<blockquote data-quote="thylantyr" data-source="post: 2428640" data-attributes="member: 560358"><p><strong>Tweeters</strong></p><p></p><p>AC G3 is cool.</p><p></p><p>But the Fountek NeoCD 2.0 for $118 is hard to beat since it has similar specs</p><p></p><p>as G3. The money saved can be used to get a better amplifier to drive the</p><p></p><p>tweeters.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.madisound.com/neocd2.0.html" target="_blank">http://www.madisound.com/neocd2.0.html</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Midrange</strong></p><p></p><p>If you are doing the fully active setup with low powered amplifiers, then</p><p></p><p>you should look into the higher sensitivity midranges and Seas isn't one of</p><p></p><p>them. Audax PR170M0 is your best bet, great bang for buck. PHL1120 is</p><p></p><p>similar in sound, but more robust in design.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.e-speakers.com/catalog/phl_audio_509577_products.htm" target="_blank">http://www.e-speakers.com/catalog/phl_audio_509577_products.htm</a></p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.zalytron.com/PHL.htm" target="_blank">http://www.zalytron.com/PHL.htm</a></p><p></p><p>If you have more power to drive the midrange then the lower sensitivity midranges are candidates and you can choose whatever you want.</p><p></p><p>If you want more bass from the midrange then you need the midwoofer not</p><p></p><p>pure midrange, the Seas are good candidates, but I would probably be biased</p><p></p><p>and choose the PHL1340. I don't see this driver listed on those sites, but</p><p></p><p>e-speakers has the PHL1360 which is probably similar in design. The PHL treated</p><p></p><p>paper cones will have better high frequency SQ than Seas and be more flexible in higher frequency crossover points. You can probably do a test box with a ported</p><p></p><p>midrange design if you want to extract more bass. heh</p><p></p><p>Since you have a XLS402, do an experiment with the Dayton woofer to see if</p><p></p><p>it meets your expectations otherwise it's all guessing. Once you find the answer,</p><p></p><p>proceed to the next phase.</p><p></p><p>With LR8 filters, you can push crossover frequencies lower on the tweeter.</p><p></p><p>For example, I use a $25 PT2 planar at 1.7khz LR8, normally it is used at</p><p></p><p>&gt;3khz with 2nd order, maybe 2.5khz 4th order, but with 8th order I can push it</p><p></p><p>lower. You won't have any issue with AC G3 or Fountek ribbon LR8 @ 2khz,</p><p></p><p>you can probably take them to 1.7khz.</p><p></p><p>Even if the tweeter is able to perform lower than 1.7khz, you may not like</p><p></p><p>the sound you hear. I have uber planars than are flat to 1.6khz, the manufacturer operates them at 1.2khz 2nd order, but I still prefer the sound with the LR8</p><p></p><p>near 2khz plus or minus a few hundred hertz.</p><p></p><p>Install 1A AGC inline fuses on your tweeters for protection. Ribbons are</p><p></p><p>uber sensitive, there has been reports of the ribbon element breaking</p><p></p><p>due to power on glitches so audio system power sequencing is important.</p><p></p><p>Ribbon are also sensitive to amplifier DC offset as it can tweak the ribbon if</p><p></p><p>there is a transient DC. Many people like to install a capacitor inline with the</p><p></p><p>ribbon tweeter to block DC as a safety measure. The fuse + cap wouldn't</p><p></p><p>be a bad idea to protect your investment.</p><p></p><p>Because it is easy to clip a low powered amplifier, I wouldn't feel comfortable</p><p></p><p>driving high end ribbons with low powered amplifiers, you may easily run</p><p></p><p>the amp into high distortion clipping.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="thylantyr, post: 2428640, member: 560358"] [B]Tweeters[/B] AC G3 is cool. But the Fountek NeoCD 2.0 for $118 is hard to beat since it has similar specs as G3. The money saved can be used to get a better amplifier to drive the tweeters. [URL="http://www.madisound.com/neocd2.0.html"]http://www.madisound.com/neocd2.0.html[/URL] [B]Midrange[/B] If you are doing the fully active setup with low powered amplifiers, then you should look into the higher sensitivity midranges and Seas isn't one of them. Audax PR170M0 is your best bet, great bang for buck. PHL1120 is similar in sound, but more robust in design. [URL="http://www.e-speakers.com/catalog/phl_audio_509577_products.htm"]http://www.e-speakers.com/catalog/phl_audio_509577_products.htm[/URL] [URL="http://www.zalytron.com/PHL.htm"]http://www.zalytron.com/PHL.htm[/URL] If you have more power to drive the midrange then the lower sensitivity midranges are candidates and you can choose whatever you want. If you want more bass from the midrange then you need the midwoofer not pure midrange, the Seas are good candidates, but I would probably be biased and choose the PHL1340. I don't see this driver listed on those sites, but e-speakers has the PHL1360 which is probably similar in design. The PHL treated paper cones will have better high frequency SQ than Seas and be more flexible in higher frequency crossover points. You can probably do a test box with a ported midrange design if you want to extract more bass. heh Since you have a XLS402, do an experiment with the Dayton woofer to see if it meets your expectations otherwise it's all guessing. Once you find the answer, proceed to the next phase. With LR8 filters, you can push crossover frequencies lower on the tweeter. For example, I use a $25 PT2 planar at 1.7khz LR8, normally it is used at >3khz with 2nd order, maybe 2.5khz 4th order, but with 8th order I can push it lower. You won't have any issue with AC G3 or Fountek ribbon LR8 @ 2khz, you can probably take them to 1.7khz. Even if the tweeter is able to perform lower than 1.7khz, you may not like the sound you hear. I have uber planars than are flat to 1.6khz, the manufacturer operates them at 1.2khz 2nd order, but I still prefer the sound with the LR8 near 2khz plus or minus a few hundred hertz. Install 1A AGC inline fuses on your tweeters for protection. Ribbons are uber sensitive, there has been reports of the ribbon element breaking due to power on glitches so audio system power sequencing is important. Ribbon are also sensitive to amplifier DC offset as it can tweak the ribbon if there is a transient DC. Many people like to install a capacitor inline with the ribbon tweeter to block DC as a safety measure. The fuse + cap wouldn't be a bad idea to protect your investment. Because it is easy to clip a low powered amplifier, I wouldn't feel comfortable driving high end ribbons with low powered amplifiers, you may easily run the amp into high distortion clipping. [/QUOTE]
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tweeter extremes...which end of the spectrum to choose?
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