Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Speakers
tweeter and super tweeter advice
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8925284" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>First, let me say that this aproach has been considered and done, and you still don't see it often enough from very experienced, advanced tuners, kind of tells you something.</p><p></p><p>Now, the Mundorf tweeters (any ribbon/AMT/EMIT) tweeters.</p><p></p><p>These are inherently difficult to aim, and the primary reason you do not see them in many builds. I love them in my home theater, MartinLogan Motion XT F200s, but even in my listening area (living room) I still have to tow & bow to get the sweet spot dead on.</p><p></p><p>In a car environment, where it's difficult at best to get them aimed correctly, you're talking about adding another tweeter, used as a supertweeter, essentially doubling up frequencies above 10k, assuming that is the crossover point.</p><p></p><p>If you plan on subduing the primary tweeter, crossing in the 10k region too, you will have multiple issues with harmonics and other anomalies.</p><p></p><p>I see zero reasons for this approach (other than it's fun to consider and looks kind of cool), as you'll encounter comb filtering issues, phase anomalies at the crossover points, multiple issues with the acoustic slopes cascading with the electronic slopes, and serious degradation of the front stage.</p><p></p><p>With the type of money you're going to spend, consider a high-quality set of hi-res berylium tweeters such as those made by Scan-speak, Bilesima, Infinity, JBL, or Focal.</p><p></p><p>Now that I kind of poo-pooed the idea (sorry), if you're still going ahead, I'd be happy to address the difference in diaphragm size and how that changes mostly frequency response (low end) and power handling.</p><p></p><p>The differences in the two Mundorf AMT ribbons (physical size aside), you have a larger radiating diaphragm that provides more dynamic range and vertical dispersion (and this matters cause you should mount AMTs sideways in a car if at all possible).</p><p></p><p>For these and other reasons, if you proceed, I would not even consider the U80.</p><p></p><p>One of the main knocks on AMTs in the car is the high frequency on/off affect their limited dispersion charateristics present, even when mounted sideways. Head movement up and down may interpret the sound as turning on and off, whereas normal mounting has the same issue, but more pronounced as it is side to side.</p><p></p><p>It also affects the output as it approaches critical mass, the larger being able to handle the dynamics and power better, especially in the distance game, the smaller being better for close proximity listening (and in a 2-way versus 3-way configuration).</p><p></p><p>As for the DSP, you need a channel per driver, or you are defeating the benefits of an active system, especially time alignment, which is critical in setting your stage(s).</p><p></p><p>Using mechanical (passive) caps along with the electronic crossovers, again, will introduce a whole host of anomalies with comb filtering, phase shifts, yada yada yada.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8925284, member: 689267"] First, let me say that this aproach has been considered and done, and you still don't see it often enough from very experienced, advanced tuners, kind of tells you something. Now, the Mundorf tweeters (any ribbon/AMT/EMIT) tweeters. These are inherently difficult to aim, and the primary reason you do not see them in many builds. I love them in my home theater, MartinLogan Motion XT F200s, but even in my listening area (living room) I still have to tow & bow to get the sweet spot dead on. In a car environment, where it's difficult at best to get them aimed correctly, you're talking about adding another tweeter, used as a supertweeter, essentially doubling up frequencies above 10k, assuming that is the crossover point. If you plan on subduing the primary tweeter, crossing in the 10k region too, you will have multiple issues with harmonics and other anomalies. I see zero reasons for this approach (other than it's fun to consider and looks kind of cool), as you'll encounter comb filtering issues, phase anomalies at the crossover points, multiple issues with the acoustic slopes cascading with the electronic slopes, and serious degradation of the front stage. With the type of money you're going to spend, consider a high-quality set of hi-res berylium tweeters such as those made by Scan-speak, Bilesima, Infinity, JBL, or Focal. Now that I kind of poo-pooed the idea (sorry), if you're still going ahead, I'd be happy to address the difference in diaphragm size and how that changes mostly frequency response (low end) and power handling. The differences in the two Mundorf AMT ribbons (physical size aside), you have a larger radiating diaphragm that provides more dynamic range and vertical dispersion (and this matters cause you should mount AMTs sideways in a car if at all possible). For these and other reasons, if you proceed, I would not even consider the U80. One of the main knocks on AMTs in the car is the high frequency on/off affect their limited dispersion charateristics present, even when mounted sideways. Head movement up and down may interpret the sound as turning on and off, whereas normal mounting has the same issue, but more pronounced as it is side to side. It also affects the output as it approaches critical mass, the larger being able to handle the dynamics and power better, especially in the distance game, the smaller being better for close proximity listening (and in a 2-way versus 3-way configuration). As for the DSP, you need a channel per driver, or you are defeating the benefits of an active system, especially time alignment, which is critical in setting your stage(s). Using mechanical (passive) caps along with the electronic crossovers, again, will introduce a whole host of anomalies with comb filtering, phase shifts, yada yada yada. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Speakers
tweeter and super tweeter advice
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list