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Tuning frequency help
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8848859" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>Okay, yes and no. Adding or subtracting weight on 4 radiators is not easier than cutting a 4-6” hole and running various, pre-established (tuning length) sections of PVC, sections which in most cases is only going to be maybe two or three say 35Hz, 30Hz and 25Hz lengths, all of which can be done without removing anything else, jus slide the port in, test, add sections, test and decide. If you’re like me you have a boat load of that material around anyway, I start with the shortest and add pre cut sections you can just tape on to the outside to extend the port. They don’t have to be flush or anything while testing, they can just be added to the face of the cabinet and stick out until you get the desired turning point. Different story if you are using a rectangle vent, understood. In this instance, passives would not only be expensive but you would need such a large area that you would really compromise the integrity of the box. 4 18” passives take up a lot of area, might take up ½ the surface area of the cabinet, and yes, it would be very expensive endeavor if done right. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve made some killer PR subs, done right they sound very nice but you rarely see this in a car. I ran this driver through BASS box pro and at 31Hz-35Hz it came out pretty nice. I can figure single or multiple slot ports, triangular ports or round ports if anyone wants that info. The program allows for various sizes to be input and projects vent air velocity and driver extension/excursion to power limits too. For those that don’t want to purchase software, visit the12volt.com. It has a pretty simple calculators that are pretty accurate for all sorts of audio calculation needs.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8848859, member: 689267"] Okay, yes and no. Adding or subtracting weight on 4 radiators is not easier than cutting a 4-6” hole and running various, pre-established (tuning length) sections of PVC, sections which in most cases is only going to be maybe two or three say 35Hz, 30Hz and 25Hz lengths, all of which can be done without removing anything else, jus slide the port in, test, add sections, test and decide. If you’re like me you have a boat load of that material around anyway, I start with the shortest and add pre cut sections you can just tape on to the outside to extend the port. They don’t have to be flush or anything while testing, they can just be added to the face of the cabinet and stick out until you get the desired turning point. Different story if you are using a rectangle vent, understood. In this instance, passives would not only be expensive but you would need such a large area that you would really compromise the integrity of the box. 4 18” passives take up a lot of area, might take up ½ the surface area of the cabinet, and yes, it would be very expensive endeavor if done right. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve made some killer PR subs, done right they sound very nice but you rarely see this in a car. I ran this driver through BASS box pro and at 31Hz-35Hz it came out pretty nice. I can figure single or multiple slot ports, triangular ports or round ports if anyone wants that info. The program allows for various sizes to be input and projects vent air velocity and driver extension/excursion to power limits too. For those that don’t want to purchase software, visit the12volt.com. It has a pretty simple calculators that are pretty accurate for all sorts of audio calculation needs. [/QUOTE]
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