Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Amplifiers
True Class A amplifiers
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="squeak9798" data-source="post: 3350801" data-attributes="member: 555320"><p>Not all are class A up to 15w. Most cut out of class A operation <em>well</em> before that.</p><p></p><p>The previously mentioned high-baised class A/B amps may give you 15-25w in class A operation......but those aren't "most" class A/B's.</p><p></p><p>Though this spec has sort of went by the wayside (and could be overstated by wise manufacturers even if it is given)....the easy way to tell class A operation is to look at the idle current spec.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.carsound.com/artman2/publish/spkrsandsubs/JL_Audio_E6450_268.shtml" target="_blank">http://www.carsound.com/artman2/publish/spkrsandsubs/JL_Audio_E6450_268.shtml</a></p><p></p><p>(first one I could find with an idle current measurement listed)</p><p></p><p>Idle current draw of 1.9A</p><p></p><p>Under <em>IDEAL</em> conditions, 14.4V supply voltage and 25% efficiency (maximum for class A operation), it would generate 6.84w in class A operation. Being a 6 channel amplifier, that equates to about 1w per channel before switching out of class A operation........</p><p></p><p>That type of idle current draw/power output is more representative of the masses of class A/B's than the high biased 15w+ variety.......</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="squeak9798, post: 3350801, member: 555320"] Not all are class A up to 15w. Most cut out of class A operation [I]well[/I] before that. The previously mentioned high-baised class A/B amps may give you 15-25w in class A operation......but those aren't "most" class A/B's. Though this spec has sort of went by the wayside (and could be overstated by wise manufacturers even if it is given)....the easy way to tell class A operation is to look at the idle current spec. [URL="http://www.carsound.com/artman2/publish/spkrsandsubs/JL_Audio_E6450_268.shtml"]http://www.carsound.com/artman2/publish/spkrsandsubs/JL_Audio_E6450_268.shtml[/URL] (first one I could find with an idle current measurement listed) Idle current draw of 1.9A Under [I]IDEAL[/I] conditions, 14.4V supply voltage and 25% efficiency (maximum for class A operation), it would generate 6.84w in class A operation. Being a 6 channel amplifier, that equates to about 1w per channel before switching out of class A operation........ That type of idle current draw/power output is more representative of the masses of class A/B's than the high biased 15w+ variety....... [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Amplifiers
True Class A amplifiers
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list