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Total Confusion. Factory Audio Interface Issues
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<blockquote data-quote="KHMS1984" data-source="post: 8219836" data-attributes="member: 659515"><p>//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/help.gif.cee8f684da1ba626487a8bc51152e1ec.gif Hey everyone, I'm hoping you can help me with an obnoxious issue.</p><p></p><p>I purchased AOEM-GM1416A from Pacific Audio Company. Its an interface for GM cars to allow the installation of an aftermarket amp and sub. Once its hooked up, everything works great until...the brake lights, headlight, fog lights, hazards or blinkers turn on, then all hell breaks loose and the info cluster, stereo, amp, and lights shut off. This poses an interesting situation whilst driving... Another weird thing, with the keys out, and nothing running, if I turn on the hazards or headlights, the amp turns on...Its odd and a bit confounding</p><p></p><p>Now, I have a 2008 Chevy HHR LT. The electrical system leaves a lot to be desired, but overall, a good vehicle. The sound system ******, because I didnt buy the Pioneer edition of the car.</p><p></p><p>Troubleshooting I've done:</p><p></p><p>Checked, and rechecked all wires leading from battery to amp to head unit. Continuity is good, no shorts.</p><p></p><p>Using an ohm meter to find faulty wires, none were found.</p><p></p><p>Checked relays and fuses both under the hood and inside.</p><p></p><p>Good, solid ground, no issues here.</p><p></p><p>Remote wire connected properly, no splits or tears</p><p></p><p>Without the PAC installed, everything is fine and dandy, only no sub or amp.</p><p></p><p>Now, I bought this for the ability to use RCA's for the low level input, and if I so want to get another amp, I can without changing anything out. Now I'm looking at it and it seems my only option is to run the High level inputs directly to the left and right front speakers right off of the head unit. (Door speakers, I'd rather not futz with them atm)</p><p></p><p>System:</p><p></p><p>Factory stereo (I really don't want to fork out 150 for the door chime interface, I'd like to keep all alarms where they are)</p><p></p><p>Alpine Monoblock 1100W (450 rms)</p><p></p><p>Infinity Reference 1000W Subwoofer</p><p></p><p>Rockford Fosgate 2 Farad Capacitor</p><p></p><p>Stinger 800 Dry Cell Deep Cycle Battery wired in series to main battery</p><p></p><p>4 Gauge power wiring</p><p></p><p>Currently, I'm wondering what life is like with a working sub and amp</p><p></p><p>Any help is greatly appreciated //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/help.gif.cee8f684da1ba626487a8bc51152e1ec.gif</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="KHMS1984, post: 8219836, member: 659515"] [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/help.gif.cee8f684da1ba626487a8bc51152e1ec.gif[/IMG] Hey everyone, I'm hoping you can help me with an obnoxious issue. I purchased AOEM-GM1416A from Pacific Audio Company. Its an interface for GM cars to allow the installation of an aftermarket amp and sub. Once its hooked up, everything works great until...the brake lights, headlight, fog lights, hazards or blinkers turn on, then all hell breaks loose and the info cluster, stereo, amp, and lights shut off. This poses an interesting situation whilst driving... Another weird thing, with the keys out, and nothing running, if I turn on the hazards or headlights, the amp turns on...Its odd and a bit confounding Now, I have a 2008 Chevy HHR LT. The electrical system leaves a lot to be desired, but overall, a good vehicle. The sound system ******, because I didnt buy the Pioneer edition of the car. Troubleshooting I've done: Checked, and rechecked all wires leading from battery to amp to head unit. Continuity is good, no shorts. Using an ohm meter to find faulty wires, none were found. Checked relays and fuses both under the hood and inside. Good, solid ground, no issues here. Remote wire connected properly, no splits or tears Without the PAC installed, everything is fine and dandy, only no sub or amp. Now, I bought this for the ability to use RCA's for the low level input, and if I so want to get another amp, I can without changing anything out. Now I'm looking at it and it seems my only option is to run the High level inputs directly to the left and right front speakers right off of the head unit. (Door speakers, I'd rather not futz with them atm) System: Factory stereo (I really don't want to fork out 150 for the door chime interface, I'd like to keep all alarms where they are) Alpine Monoblock 1100W (450 rms) Infinity Reference 1000W Subwoofer Rockford Fosgate 2 Farad Capacitor Stinger 800 Dry Cell Deep Cycle Battery wired in series to main battery 4 Gauge power wiring Currently, I'm wondering what life is like with a working sub and amp Any help is greatly appreciated [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/help.gif.cee8f684da1ba626487a8bc51152e1ec.gif[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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