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<blockquote data-quote="Rudy" data-source="post: 7444311" data-attributes="member: 568035">Good stuff! The other reason for not using more vibration damper than you need to control resonance is the problem it will create for future body work - it&#039;s way easier to get back to sheet metal with 25% coverage than it is with anything more. I learned this the hard way. Same reason you shouldn&#039;t glue anything to the sheet metal you don&#039;t absolutely have to.If you&#039;re serious about SPL, you have to give up on the idea of ever getting the vehicle back to stock. Do what Buck said. More energy is lost to panel distortion and air leaks than anything else. Vibration damper works against you if you&#039;re trying to maximize SPL.Vibration damper can help indirectly with rattles by controlling vibration in the sheet metal. That will educe the energy available to the rattles. It&#039;s seldom a complete solution and is always the indirect approach. Rattles are always one or more hard objects, one or more of which is vibrating, making intermittent contact with another hard object. The 100% effective solution is to put something soft and resilient, like the CCF whitedragon551 suggested,&nbsp; between the objects to keep them apart.A rattling license plate is the perfect example. You could apply multiple layers of vibration damper on the back wall of the trunk to try and stop the vibration or you could put 25 cents worth of CCF on the back of the tag and stop it completely.Interesting note - I&#039;m in Maryland and we just had an earthquake while I was typing this. I share a building with a body shop. As soon as the building started to shake I headed over to their side to tell them to stop doing whatever they were doing that was bringing the building down. Met them in the middle - they were coming over to tell me to stop whatever I was doing //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Rudy, post: 7444311, member: 568035"] Good stuff! The other reason for not using more vibration damper than you need to control resonance is the problem it will create for future body work - it's way easier to get back to sheet metal with 25% coverage than it is with anything more. I learned this the hard way. Same reason you shouldn't glue anything to the sheet metal you don't absolutely have to. If you're serious about SPL, you have to give up on the idea of ever getting the vehicle back to stock. Do what Buck said. More energy is lost to panel distortion and air leaks than anything else. Vibration damper works against you if you're trying to maximize SPL. Vibration damper can help indirectly with rattles by controlling vibration in the sheet metal. That will educe the energy available to the rattles. It's seldom a complete solution and is always the indirect approach. Rattles are always one or more hard objects, one or more of which is vibrating, making intermittent contact with another hard object. The 100% effective solution is to put something soft and resilient, like the CCF whitedragon551 suggested, between the objects to keep them apart. A rattling license plate is the perfect example. You could apply multiple layers of vibration damper on the back wall of the trunk to try and stop the vibration or you could put 25 cents worth of CCF on the back of the tag and stop it completely. Interesting note - I'm in Maryland and we just had an earthquake while I was typing this. I share a building with a body shop. As soon as the building started to shake I headed over to their side to tell them to stop doing whatever they were doing that was bringing the building down. Met them in the middle - they were coming over to tell me to stop whatever I was doing [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] [/QUOTE]

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