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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 7131050" data-attributes="member: 576029">there is a lot to consider when amplifier channels are limited.&nbsp; given the options of:1. fronts and rears powered from a 4 channel - 55W available2. fronts only powered bridged - probably around 200W available3. fronts powered bridged and rears off a head unit - 200W to the front and 12W to the rearin previous systems i have had and installed all three above.&nbsp; #2 was my hands down favorite.while THD is rated higher when bridged, you have 4x as much power available.&nbsp; so instead of operating at max output to get 50W (and max THD) you are operating with a lot more head room.&nbsp; the result is much less distortion in dynamic peaks (and the ability to reproduce dynamic peaks).&nbsp; you can&#039;t achieve SQL without a lot of power.when running rears off the head unit, they are subject to the head unit distortion.&nbsp; so you need to make sure your gain structure takes that into consideration.&nbsp; you still have your fader to help with rear attenuation.when bridging - use a DMM and test tones to get your gains equal - don&#039;t just judge by the dial position as that is quite inaccurate.each person has different expectations.&nbsp; some aren&#039;t happy without rear speakers playing as loud as the front.&nbsp; it&#039;s mostly personal preference.&nbsp; i&#039;ve ran and installed amplified full range front/rear systems for well over a decade.&nbsp; when i removed rear speakers i was happier because i had 4x as much power to give to my front components - which made them come alive.&nbsp; the only reason i power rears now is because i have an adequate active processor and enough amplifier channels to do what i want.&nbsp; my rears are time delayed, bandpassed, and level set for true &quot;rear fill&quot;.&nbsp; you can&#039;t tell they are even on until i turn them off, then the car sounds like it&#039;s smaller.&nbsp; rears on or off my sound stage height/width/depth is unaffected. but i would rather not have rear speakers if i cannot properly filter and delay them.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 7131050, member: 576029"] there is a lot to consider when amplifier channels are limited. given the options of: 1. fronts and rears powered from a 4 channel - 55W available 2. fronts only powered bridged - probably around 200W available 3. fronts powered bridged and rears off a head unit - 200W to the front and 12W to the rear in previous systems i have had and installed all three above. #2 was my hands down favorite. while THD is rated higher when bridged, you have 4x as much power available. so instead of operating at max output to get 50W (and max THD) you are operating with a lot more head room. the result is much less distortion in dynamic peaks (and the ability to reproduce dynamic peaks). you can't achieve SQL without a lot of power. when running rears off the head unit, they are subject to the head unit distortion. so you need to make sure your gain structure takes that into consideration. you still have your fader to help with rear attenuation. when bridging - use a DMM and test tones to get your gains equal - don't just judge by the dial position as that is quite inaccurate. each person has different expectations. some aren't happy without rear speakers playing as loud as the front. it's mostly personal preference. i've ran and installed amplified full range front/rear systems for well over a decade. when i removed rear speakers i was happier because i had 4x as much power to give to my front components - which made them come alive. the only reason i power rears now is because i have an adequate active processor and enough amplifier channels to do what i want. my rears are time delayed, bandpassed, and level set for true "rear fill". you can't tell they are even on until i turn them off, then the car sounds like it's smaller. rears on or off my sound stage height/width/depth is unaffected. but i would rather not have rear speakers if i cannot properly filter and delay them. [/QUOTE]

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