Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Subwoofers
The Official Type R Thread
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="SoundSplinter" data-source="post: 1101789" data-attributes="member: 556387"><p>You likely will never hear me state that anybody's tests or opinions are worthless, as worth is determined differently by each and every person reading the words. Some may place much value upon them, others may place none - as with so many things in this world, a very subjective opinion it would be. <img src="http://www.soundsplinter.com/images/graemlins/yingyang.gif" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>With that said, I would like to address the above comments. As to the RL-p being "smooth at low to mid volume ... but once u start turnin it up it looses all it abilities." Well that is no suprise to me, as I explicitly stated to this person before I shipped the woofer that their amp was too strong for this driver and their gain would need to be set conservatively. Obviously as you turn up the volume you will be feeding more power to the driver, and with the amount of power you had on tap it is a no brainer that the RL-p would struggle with it!</p><p></p><p>On to the second comment that has already been brought into question, about how "the box he had it in was about what was recommended for him 2 test it in from SS." This is entirely untrue. First off, I didn't give a specific recommendation as Mr. Potts never asked for one and always carried himself throughout our correspondance as someone with much experience and ability to adjust the box as necessary in order to determine the optimal performance of the driver. For example, in an email dated August 23rd, he told me: "Of course, the woofer will be tested in everything from the worst sounding fart box to the SQ box that I would build if a customer came to me with one of the woofers." Additionally, our website recommendations for the RL-p12 (as well as my own personal recommendations) do not advocate vented boxes larger than 2.0 cu ft net volume under any circumstances, with the general recommendation calling for a 1.5 - 2.0 cu ft net volume enclosure tuned between 28-34 Hz for in-car use (tuning dependent upon user preference).</p><p></p><p>.. and Finally, with respect to the last comment about the coil heating up and the cone getting hot - well sh¡eeeet this certainly ties into my first response regarding the power level. If you use more power than the given coil can withstand, obviously you will overload it. Keep in mind that every coil has a thermal time constant, and even at its RMS rating, exposure over a lengthy continuous stretch will bring all coils down in the long run. Our cone is aluminum for the expressed purpose of doubling as a giant heatsink where it connects directly to the voicecoil former. Thus, if you notice it getting far too hot to touch, you should realize that you are overpowering the driver. To exemplify that I did what I could to make Mr. Potts aware of this matter, consider the following response I wrote to him via email during our correspondance:</p><p></p><p></p><p>One last time, I want to reiterate that I <em>never</em> promote my products strictly for SPL purposes. My goal is not to make my customers deaf (though I assure you that the RL-p's can deliver your deaf wish if so inclined!), but to provide people with a reference quality speaker for home or car audio that doesn't come with the outrageous price tag or power requirements of other woofers designed for this class of application. In terms of build quality, minimal distortion, and overall sound reproduction - I stand by my drivers as among the best on the market for extremely accurate performance at a very reasonable price.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SoundSplinter, post: 1101789, member: 556387"] You likely will never hear me state that anybody's tests or opinions are worthless, as worth is determined differently by each and every person reading the words. Some may place much value upon them, others may place none - as with so many things in this world, a very subjective opinion it would be. [IMG]http://www.soundsplinter.com/images/graemlins/yingyang.gif[/IMG] With that said, I would like to address the above comments. As to the RL-p being "smooth at low to mid volume ... but once u start turnin it up it looses all it abilities." Well that is no suprise to me, as I explicitly stated to this person before I shipped the woofer that their amp was too strong for this driver and their gain would need to be set conservatively. Obviously as you turn up the volume you will be feeding more power to the driver, and with the amount of power you had on tap it is a no brainer that the RL-p would struggle with it! On to the second comment that has already been brought into question, about how "the box he had it in was about what was recommended for him 2 test it in from SS." This is entirely untrue. First off, I didn't give a specific recommendation as Mr. Potts never asked for one and always carried himself throughout our correspondance as someone with much experience and ability to adjust the box as necessary in order to determine the optimal performance of the driver. For example, in an email dated August 23rd, he told me: "Of course, the woofer will be tested in everything from the worst sounding fart box to the SQ box that I would build if a customer came to me with one of the woofers." Additionally, our website recommendations for the RL-p12 (as well as my own personal recommendations) do not advocate vented boxes larger than 2.0 cu ft net volume under any circumstances, with the general recommendation calling for a 1.5 - 2.0 cu ft net volume enclosure tuned between 28-34 Hz for in-car use (tuning dependent upon user preference). .. and Finally, with respect to the last comment about the coil heating up and the cone getting hot - well sh¡eeeet this certainly ties into my first response regarding the power level. If you use more power than the given coil can withstand, obviously you will overload it. Keep in mind that every coil has a thermal time constant, and even at its RMS rating, exposure over a lengthy continuous stretch will bring all coils down in the long run. Our cone is aluminum for the expressed purpose of doubling as a giant heatsink where it connects directly to the voicecoil former. Thus, if you notice it getting far too hot to touch, you should realize that you are overpowering the driver. To exemplify that I did what I could to make Mr. Potts aware of this matter, consider the following response I wrote to him via email during our correspondance: One last time, I want to reiterate that I [I]never[/I] promote my products strictly for SPL purposes. My goal is not to make my customers deaf (though I assure you that the RL-p's can deliver your deaf wish if so inclined!), but to provide people with a reference quality speaker for home or car audio that doesn't come with the outrageous price tag or power requirements of other woofers designed for this class of application. In terms of build quality, minimal distortion, and overall sound reproduction - I stand by my drivers as among the best on the market for extremely accurate performance at a very reasonable price. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Discussion
Subwoofers
The Official Type R Thread
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list