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t-line box?
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<blockquote data-quote="bbeljefe" data-source="post: 8287948" data-attributes="member: 655960"><p>I think you probably talked to David or Steve Brondstetter? If so, you're in good hands, although I don't entirely agree with that description of a t-line. For one, if it's flat all the way across the spectrum, it can't be as loud as two subs because flat means there is no acoustical gain and thus, no increase in sound pressure over a conventional alignment. Or to put it simply, it would basically be as loud as a sealed enclosure while having a wider bandwidth... which would make it louder only where the sealed box began to fall off down low.</p><p></p><p>Also, I've yet to find a sub that doesn't do its best in a line... cheap or otherwise. To be sure, cheap subs won't do as well in a line as quality subs but that applies to any alignment so it's a moot point. So I definitely disagree with the notion that cheap subs won't work in a line. They absolutely will work and I have video showing that on my youtube channel. Other than that, I have a good deal of respect for Steve's knowledge where t-lines are concerned. He's helped me out some with the theory and from what I've seen, he has built some pretty nice t-line setups.</p><p></p><p>That said, if you're looking to get the most out of your sub and you're prepared to sacrifice some trunk space to get it, then a line is the best box you can build. They will play well above the sub bass region with ease and low end extension usually doesn't go -3dB until one full octave below tuning. So, if your box is tuned to 35Hz, you can expect good response all the way down to 18Hz. As for the dont's of t-lines, they are few but important. First... don't tune above the driver's Fs. And second... well, there isn't a second, lol.</p><p></p><p>If you have any more questions, feel free to ask away. I'm not the end all be all to lines and if you're dealing with the Brandstetter you're already dealing with experts but none the less, I'm happy to help in any way I can. Oh and, here are a few youtube links to lines I've done:</p><p></p><p>This one was built for two JL 8W3s but during testing, the surrounds crapped out so I threw in a couple of 20 year old, 75 watt woofers that came out of a pair of M&amp;S Systems in wall home audio speakers. They're 8Ω subs wired to 2Ω and they're being hit full tilt boogie with a Ground Zero 850 watt monoblock amp:</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]lLqJ9yF_oEE[/MEDIA]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bbeljefe, post: 8287948, member: 655960"] I think you probably talked to David or Steve Brondstetter? If so, you're in good hands, although I don't entirely agree with that description of a t-line. For one, if it's flat all the way across the spectrum, it can't be as loud as two subs because flat means there is no acoustical gain and thus, no increase in sound pressure over a conventional alignment. Or to put it simply, it would basically be as loud as a sealed enclosure while having a wider bandwidth... which would make it louder only where the sealed box began to fall off down low. Also, I've yet to find a sub that doesn't do its best in a line... cheap or otherwise. To be sure, cheap subs won't do as well in a line as quality subs but that applies to any alignment so it's a moot point. So I definitely disagree with the notion that cheap subs won't work in a line. They absolutely will work and I have video showing that on my youtube channel. Other than that, I have a good deal of respect for Steve's knowledge where t-lines are concerned. He's helped me out some with the theory and from what I've seen, he has built some pretty nice t-line setups. That said, if you're looking to get the most out of your sub and you're prepared to sacrifice some trunk space to get it, then a line is the best box you can build. They will play well above the sub bass region with ease and low end extension usually doesn't go -3dB until one full octave below tuning. So, if your box is tuned to 35Hz, you can expect good response all the way down to 18Hz. As for the dont's of t-lines, they are few but important. First... don't tune above the driver's Fs. And second... well, there isn't a second, lol. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask away. I'm not the end all be all to lines and if you're dealing with the Brandstetter you're already dealing with experts but none the less, I'm happy to help in any way I can. Oh and, here are a few youtube links to lines I've done: This one was built for two JL 8W3s but during testing, the surrounds crapped out so I threw in a couple of 20 year old, 75 watt woofers that came out of a pair of M&S Systems in wall home audio speakers. They're 8Ω subs wired to 2Ω and they're being hit full tilt boogie with a Ground Zero 850 watt monoblock amp: [MEDIA=youtube]lLqJ9yF_oEE[/MEDIA] [/QUOTE]
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