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Switching choice from W7's to Brahmas- AMP CONFIG etc.
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<blockquote data-quote="jlaine" data-source="post: 100799" data-attributes="member: 542392"><p>drkodin, the likely situation that happened for you was that you replaced a failing battery with a vastly superior replacement. Don't worry about what name is on the side of it, be it RF or Pyramid, so long as it does the job it was supposed to do, that is all you need be worried about. A name is a name, just be confident that the product you have in there is working for what you wanted it to do.</p><p></p><p>The dimming situation you have happening is when your alternator gets overloaded, and you fall back on the battery power. You go from the 14.4 that the alternator is residing on, to the 12.6 that the battery rests at. If you have a severe system, with several hundred amps of current draw, you can even drop below the 12.6 pretty easy.</p><p></p><p>As for charging the battery back up, there is no sure fire way to know what the level of charge is on a battery unless you physically test it, so as far as one could tell, you could be running on a half-charged battery. Easiest check would be to drop a battery charger on it on the low setting, and see how long it takes to completely charge.</p><p></p><p>I live in Minnesota, hence my concern about deep cycle designs used as primary batteries. It's not that you'll physically freeze the battery, it's that starting a cold engine is difficult, and then you have a lot of high-current devices running to keep you using the vehicle. (rear defrost, heater, fan, etc.). I have a vehicle with a red top in it, even though I have a car audio system installed. So long as you watch your head, and don't drain the battery hard, it'll last you a LONG time. Mine is going on a ripe old 3 years... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jlaine, post: 100799, member: 542392"] drkodin, the likely situation that happened for you was that you replaced a failing battery with a vastly superior replacement. Don't worry about what name is on the side of it, be it RF or Pyramid, so long as it does the job it was supposed to do, that is all you need be worried about. A name is a name, just be confident that the product you have in there is working for what you wanted it to do. The dimming situation you have happening is when your alternator gets overloaded, and you fall back on the battery power. You go from the 14.4 that the alternator is residing on, to the 12.6 that the battery rests at. If you have a severe system, with several hundred amps of current draw, you can even drop below the 12.6 pretty easy. As for charging the battery back up, there is no sure fire way to know what the level of charge is on a battery unless you physically test it, so as far as one could tell, you could be running on a half-charged battery. Easiest check would be to drop a battery charger on it on the low setting, and see how long it takes to completely charge. I live in Minnesota, hence my concern about deep cycle designs used as primary batteries. It's not that you'll physically freeze the battery, it's that starting a cold engine is difficult, and then you have a lot of high-current devices running to keep you using the vehicle. (rear defrost, heater, fan, etc.). I have a vehicle with a red top in it, even though I have a car audio system installed. So long as you watch your head, and don't drain the battery hard, it'll last you a LONG time. Mine is going on a ripe old 3 years... [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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Switching choice from W7's to Brahmas- AMP CONFIG etc.
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