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<blockquote data-quote="Jimi77" data-source="post: 8840325" data-attributes="member: 673702">I&#039;m talking specifically Asian amps which tend to be sturdier than the Brazilian amps.&nbsp; Quality (Asian) amps can take a bit of clipping.&nbsp; Years ago there was a popular guy in car audio (Totoro/Eric Chan) that recommended clipping and even offered a audio file with clipped signal to assist setting the amp with clipping.&nbsp; That was a long time ago and power wasn&#039;t as cheap and dynamic compression wasn&#039;t as popular and clipping the original track wasn&#039;t a common practice.&nbsp; If you&#039;re going to play rebassed music (which I&#039;m unfamiliar with), I&#039;d set my amp not clip with a 0db sine wave and keep in mind you can fry coils if you aren&#039;t careful with your volume knob, boost settings, etc.&nbsp; If you play a bass heavy track full tilt, you&#039;re probably going to be okay, you play bass heavy tracks full tilt for 2 hours straight and you&#039;re probably going to fry a coil.&nbsp; I assume you have a ported enclosure, if not you might consider porting as a way to pick up some free bass.&nbsp; If you&#039;re looking for maximum bass impact I&#039;d tune in the 35-40hz range as long as you have a SSF that can go that high.&nbsp; Hopefully the sub has a healthy amount of xmech if you&#039;re going to tune high.&nbsp; 35hz is common middle ground to tune at.&nbsp; Maybe you just need a bigger or more powerful sub to satisfy your hunger for bass.&nbsp; You could try a 6th order bandpass, although I&#039;m not a fan of the way they sound and the margins for error get really tight with a 6th order.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Personally, I don&#039;t get rebassed music.&nbsp; Most car audio systems are 6-12db louder on the substage (vs the front stage).&nbsp; Now you&#039;re taking a bass heavy track and adding yet another 3-6db of bass.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Jimi77, post: 8840325, member: 673702"] I'm talking specifically Asian amps which tend to be sturdier than the Brazilian amps. Quality (Asian) amps can take a bit of clipping. Years ago there was a popular guy in car audio (Totoro/Eric Chan) that recommended clipping and even offered a audio file with clipped signal to assist setting the amp with clipping. That was a long time ago and power wasn't as cheap and dynamic compression wasn't as popular and clipping the original track wasn't a common practice. If you're going to play rebassed music (which I'm unfamiliar with), I'd set my amp not clip with a 0db sine wave and keep in mind you can fry coils if you aren't careful with your volume knob, boost settings, etc. If you play a bass heavy track full tilt, you're probably going to be okay, you play bass heavy tracks full tilt for 2 hours straight and you're probably going to fry a coil. I assume you have a ported enclosure, if not you might consider porting as a way to pick up some free bass. If you're looking for maximum bass impact I'd tune in the 35-40hz range as long as you have a SSF that can go that high. Hopefully the sub has a healthy amount of xmech if you're going to tune high. 35hz is common middle ground to tune at. Maybe you just need a bigger or more powerful sub to satisfy your hunger for bass. You could try a 6th order bandpass, although I'm not a fan of the way they sound and the margins for error get really tight with a 6th order. Personally, I don't get rebassed music. Most car audio systems are 6-12db louder on the substage (vs the front stage). Now you're taking a bass heavy track and adding yet another 3-6db of bass. [/QUOTE]

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