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Subwoofer not playing right
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<blockquote data-quote="Buck" data-source="post: 8861175" data-attributes="member: 591582"><p>I vote to take your backseat out and build a proper sub box back there. If your back seat is a 60/40, you can take the 40 out and build a bigger taller box in place of the seat. If you’re new to audio, working with an underseat box is the most difficult. I find designing underseat boxes at least as challenging as walls. Realistically, you’re only going to be able to fit a limited amount of options under that seat. I’ve designed a ton of boxes; I’m good with funky geometry, and because of that, I did a ton of underseat boxes. I’m telling you your options are always going to be very limited, so maybe think about that. You have to obey your airspace restrictions and find a sub and box setup that maximizes your space, when it comes to combining the right sub(s) and power levels.</p><p></p><p>For a beginner, you’re literally doing the hardest type of box, IMO, outside of a full wall build. Pickup trucks can suffer from bad cancellation due to the location and width of the box in the cab, and especially because pickup trucks’ cabins tend to be wider than they are deep, or the width and depth of the cab is near squared. I’ve seen big systems in trucks sound like crap, like 2 18’s, because the box design and placement in the cab was causing the whole sub system to cancel itself out, with how the wave phases were destructive and didn’t add together properly. It’s complicated for a beginner.</p><p></p><p>I’ve done underseat boxes with: sealed, ported, 4th order bandpass, and series 6th order bandpass, and I’m telling you, they’re just difficult to maximize space, power, and overall performance. My first vehicle was an ext cab f150, and I removed the whole rear seat and put all sorts of different systems back there, because I had plenty of space, and that allowed me to figure out sound more, experiment, really allowed me to have fun, because I had plenty of room for whatever. Just a long thought for you from a long time box designer <img class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" alt="💙" title="💙" src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f499.png" /></p><p></p><p>You can look through my IG, there’s some truck pics there and you can see if you get any new ideas from them:</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://instagram.com/buck.box.designs?igshid=MzMyNGUyNmU2YQ%3D%3D&utm_source=qr[/URL]</p><p></p><p>Here’s a series 6th order for a DC 12 in the 40 split, for example:</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=instagram]CKcUXHOMSxL[/MEDIA]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buck, post: 8861175, member: 591582"] I vote to take your backseat out and build a proper sub box back there. If your back seat is a 60/40, you can take the 40 out and build a bigger taller box in place of the seat. If you’re new to audio, working with an underseat box is the most difficult. I find designing underseat boxes at least as challenging as walls. Realistically, you’re only going to be able to fit a limited amount of options under that seat. I’ve designed a ton of boxes; I’m good with funky geometry, and because of that, I did a ton of underseat boxes. I’m telling you your options are always going to be very limited, so maybe think about that. You have to obey your airspace restrictions and find a sub and box setup that maximizes your space, when it comes to combining the right sub(s) and power levels. For a beginner, you’re literally doing the hardest type of box, IMO, outside of a full wall build. Pickup trucks can suffer from bad cancellation due to the location and width of the box in the cab, and especially because pickup trucks’ cabins tend to be wider than they are deep, or the width and depth of the cab is near squared. I’ve seen big systems in trucks sound like crap, like 2 18’s, because the box design and placement in the cab was causing the whole sub system to cancel itself out, with how the wave phases were destructive and didn’t add together properly. It’s complicated for a beginner. I’ve done underseat boxes with: sealed, ported, 4th order bandpass, and series 6th order bandpass, and I’m telling you, they’re just difficult to maximize space, power, and overall performance. My first vehicle was an ext cab f150, and I removed the whole rear seat and put all sorts of different systems back there, because I had plenty of space, and that allowed me to figure out sound more, experiment, really allowed me to have fun, because I had plenty of room for whatever. Just a long thought for you from a long time box designer 💙 You can look through my IG, there’s some truck pics there and you can see if you get any new ideas from them: [URL unfurl="true"]https://instagram.com/buck.box.designs?igshid=MzMyNGUyNmU2YQ%3D%3D&utm_source=qr[/URL] Here’s a series 6th order for a DC 12 in the 40 split, for example: [MEDIA=instagram]CKcUXHOMSxL[/MEDIA] [/QUOTE]
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Subwoofer not playing right
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