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Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Subwoofer advice, Upgrade sub or box
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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8767904" data-attributes="member: 614752"><p>This is all very relative. I'd say out of a sedan/trunk you're really going to need to brute force things to get a lot of bass up to the listening position. I've got a single 12" on 400W or thereabouts sub channel off a small 5 channel amp in my Corolla and I'd say it "keeps up" is about it. If you feel you're missing pure output you'd want more power and a more robust woofer to handle that power. The good news is that assuming that box is built soundly and those specs you shared are legit it should allow quite a few options of different things you could buy to throw in there to audition (if you bought a bigger amp). </p><p></p><p>If it's a matter of bandwidth, I don't think Kenwood/Pioneer/Alpine/Sony tier head units are going to not give you a good flat output and if you're not spending up into a source unit with the higher end pre-amp features in it (30 band EQ and time alignment) you may have a hard time using whatever primitive built in EQ you get to balance out things. </p><p></p><p>I will say that before you start throwing money at new equipment you ought to try to mix up the position and aiming of the box you have now. Aim it forward, back, up, to the side, try different distances from the sides, front and back, etc. With trunks in particular aiming and position of the box in the trunk can make a dramatic difference in output and frequency response. This way you can at least rule out a simple fix but also get a good idea of what orientation and position works best in that vehicle so that you can better plan any future upgrades. </p><p></p><p>In general though the only complaints anyone ever has about the JL lineup is the MSRP but they do employ a couple few hundred Americans and manufacture most of their stuff domestic and generally have a high quality good sounding product. You have plenty of options if you want to start shopping around but I think throwing different subs at that without doubling power isn't going to give you any significant gains, and I feel that once you step up to 1000-1200W range you'd be best suited with W7 if you're really loyal to JL. They can be had for 300-350 range if you can find a well cared for used one and IMO they're a good option in that price range.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8767904, member: 614752"] This is all very relative. I'd say out of a sedan/trunk you're really going to need to brute force things to get a lot of bass up to the listening position. I've got a single 12" on 400W or thereabouts sub channel off a small 5 channel amp in my Corolla and I'd say it "keeps up" is about it. If you feel you're missing pure output you'd want more power and a more robust woofer to handle that power. The good news is that assuming that box is built soundly and those specs you shared are legit it should allow quite a few options of different things you could buy to throw in there to audition (if you bought a bigger amp). If it's a matter of bandwidth, I don't think Kenwood/Pioneer/Alpine/Sony tier head units are going to not give you a good flat output and if you're not spending up into a source unit with the higher end pre-amp features in it (30 band EQ and time alignment) you may have a hard time using whatever primitive built in EQ you get to balance out things. I will say that before you start throwing money at new equipment you ought to try to mix up the position and aiming of the box you have now. Aim it forward, back, up, to the side, try different distances from the sides, front and back, etc. With trunks in particular aiming and position of the box in the trunk can make a dramatic difference in output and frequency response. This way you can at least rule out a simple fix but also get a good idea of what orientation and position works best in that vehicle so that you can better plan any future upgrades. In general though the only complaints anyone ever has about the JL lineup is the MSRP but they do employ a couple few hundred Americans and manufacture most of their stuff domestic and generally have a high quality good sounding product. You have plenty of options if you want to start shopping around but I think throwing different subs at that without doubling power isn't going to give you any significant gains, and I feel that once you step up to 1000-1200W range you'd be best suited with W7 if you're really loyal to JL. They can be had for 300-350 range if you can find a well cared for used one and IMO they're a good option in that price range. [/QUOTE]
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