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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Sub worked fine in standard, now not in standard or network
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<blockquote data-quote="tigey" data-source="post: 8289722" data-attributes="member: 661478"><p>For the grounds on all three amps, I have used self-tapping screws into what I think is pretty flimsy sheet metal just below the back window. The DMM says it's solid, so I used it. I also suspected ground, so I changed it back to the original ground, but no dice. The original ground area is solid steel, just behind the taillight area. Both the present and original ground areas are sanded, bare metal. The other amps play fine using the same grounding area, but they're only 60 watts RMS each; the sub amp is 300 watts, so maybe the ground's not adequate for 300 watts, if that's possible.</p><p></p><p>At one point, while the sub worked correctly, I was playing with equalizer or something, went for a five minute ride with sub unsecured and some lard *** ******* on her Burger King ice cream cone pulled out in front of me on the wrong side of the road. I hit the brakes, the sub tipped, but played just fine. Anyway, since nothing else has worked, I've taken apart the sub to inspect for physical damage, but none is visible. I do see two positive and two negative leads to the speaker. Does that mean it's a dual-voice coil? If so, can I test it by connecting it one of my Kenwoods? Should the amp be bridged then? Also, do I need to disconnect the soldered-on built in RF amp before I can test it? I hope I can power it without having to unsolder that puppy. Thanks.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tigey, post: 8289722, member: 661478"] For the grounds on all three amps, I have used self-tapping screws into what I think is pretty flimsy sheet metal just below the back window. The DMM says it's solid, so I used it. I also suspected ground, so I changed it back to the original ground, but no dice. The original ground area is solid steel, just behind the taillight area. Both the present and original ground areas are sanded, bare metal. The other amps play fine using the same grounding area, but they're only 60 watts RMS each; the sub amp is 300 watts, so maybe the ground's not adequate for 300 watts, if that's possible. At one point, while the sub worked correctly, I was playing with equalizer or something, went for a five minute ride with sub unsecured and some lard *** ******* on her Burger King ice cream cone pulled out in front of me on the wrong side of the road. I hit the brakes, the sub tipped, but played just fine. Anyway, since nothing else has worked, I've taken apart the sub to inspect for physical damage, but none is visible. I do see two positive and two negative leads to the speaker. Does that mean it's a dual-voice coil? If so, can I test it by connecting it one of my Kenwoods? Should the amp be bridged then? Also, do I need to disconnect the soldered-on built in RF amp before I can test it? I hope I can power it without having to unsolder that puppy. Thanks. [/QUOTE]
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Sub worked fine in standard, now not in standard or network
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