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Sub box design
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<blockquote data-quote="LsGuy" data-source="post: 8719069" data-attributes="member: 681035"><p>Hello all, another question about my system.</p><p></p><p>The sub in question is a Pioneer shallow mount 8 inch 250 watt rms sub powered with ~200 watts rms.</p><p></p><p>I am attempting to build a sealed enclosure for it. Trunk isn't an option, I dont think the sub would get loud enough to mount there, and I can't afford to lose any trunk space or my fold down seats. Rear deck mount isn't providing me what I want. Volume is fine, but bass isn't tight enough for me and theres a ton of rattle. Building an enclosure under the deck would require extensive modification (torsion bars directly under sub). Seats sit too low to fit the sub under, and at my height if I raised the seat my head would hit the roof. The one area I could sacrifice space is the passenger floorboard. Total working room here is 4.5 inches tall, 19 inches wide and 10 inches long. This is plenty of room for this sub as it has a mounting depth of only 2 5/8 inches. However, I want to go for a stealth look. Top of the box even with the door trim, carpet over the top. </p><p></p><p>I have found 2 methods to achieve this, but I dont know which would be better.</p><p></p><p>Option one up firing. Build the box to the floor, 3/4 inch wood on top to be weight bearing. Sub inset into the top of the box 3/4 of an inch, and build a weight bearing grate that would be inset into the box probably 1/4 inch to be flush. This would leave 1/2 inch for upward sub travel. Small sub with low wattage, this may be enough clearance but not sure. Carpet would lay directly over sub. Sub would sit 1/2 inch off of base.</p><p></p><p>Option 2 down firing. 1 inch gap between box face and floor. If using 1/2 inch wood inside dimensions would only be 2.5 inches, sub would be roughly 1/2 inch from the wood on the back side. Braced solid 1/2 inch weight bearing top. This is easier because I wouldn't have to figure out a grating system. Issue is, with a 1 inch gap there would only be an opening on one side, of about 18 inches. Would this be enough for the bass to come through? The up side is it would be aiming undernearh the drivers seat, so to the front of the cab. </p><p></p><p>Thoughts?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="LsGuy, post: 8719069, member: 681035"] Hello all, another question about my system. The sub in question is a Pioneer shallow mount 8 inch 250 watt rms sub powered with ~200 watts rms. I am attempting to build a sealed enclosure for it. Trunk isn't an option, I dont think the sub would get loud enough to mount there, and I can't afford to lose any trunk space or my fold down seats. Rear deck mount isn't providing me what I want. Volume is fine, but bass isn't tight enough for me and theres a ton of rattle. Building an enclosure under the deck would require extensive modification (torsion bars directly under sub). Seats sit too low to fit the sub under, and at my height if I raised the seat my head would hit the roof. The one area I could sacrifice space is the passenger floorboard. Total working room here is 4.5 inches tall, 19 inches wide and 10 inches long. This is plenty of room for this sub as it has a mounting depth of only 2 5/8 inches. However, I want to go for a stealth look. Top of the box even with the door trim, carpet over the top. I have found 2 methods to achieve this, but I dont know which would be better. Option one up firing. Build the box to the floor, 3/4 inch wood on top to be weight bearing. Sub inset into the top of the box 3/4 of an inch, and build a weight bearing grate that would be inset into the box probably 1/4 inch to be flush. This would leave 1/2 inch for upward sub travel. Small sub with low wattage, this may be enough clearance but not sure. Carpet would lay directly over sub. Sub would sit 1/2 inch off of base. Option 2 down firing. 1 inch gap between box face and floor. If using 1/2 inch wood inside dimensions would only be 2.5 inches, sub would be roughly 1/2 inch from the wood on the back side. Braced solid 1/2 inch weight bearing top. This is easier because I wouldn't have to figure out a grating system. Issue is, with a 1 inch gap there would only be an opening on one side, of about 18 inches. Would this be enough for the bass to come through? The up side is it would be aiming undernearh the drivers seat, so to the front of the cab. Thoughts? [/QUOTE]
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