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Strange frequency behavior of new installation
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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8711429" data-attributes="member: 614752"><p>Can and will very quickly. Be extremely careful you keep it to very low power if you're trying to test stuff now. </p><p></p><p>What's jumping out at me looking at your curve is where your nulls are. 150, 300, 1500, and 3000. This leads me to suspect some standing waves being created at those lengths and I'd wager if you could graph up to 15,000 you would see a dip there.</p><p></p><p>As far as "fixing" your response let me first say "if it sounds good it is good". Most people find deal flat RTA not pleasing for listening so if you're not trying to do that for the sake of a competition don't get hung up on it. Now if something sounds wrong it can be a good tool to try to pinpoint the trouble.</p><p></p><p>That being said, you MUST select crossover points before you try to chase down peaks and nulls, and either figure out how to make your amp/source unit do the job or build your own passive crossover network; you can find passive crossover calculators online and buy components at mouser.com (and possibly somewhere in Europe as well). If you want to be snobbish about components chose air core ribbon inductors and poly caps. Otherwise iron core round wire and electrolytic will get the job done just as well. Use ceramic power resistors either way.</p><p></p><p>Peaks can and should be tamed with EQ</p><p></p><p>Nulls in your response may be happening at or around crossover points. If overlapping more causes the null to get worse you can try to move the crossover point and see what that does, overlap less, or start experimenting running things out of phase. Try every single combination, one mid only, one tweet only, both mids, both tweets. It doesn't have to make any sense but I have personally seen this fix things. Location and aiming of drivers is a big limitation in a car and often the most difficult to easily overcome. Tweeters can be mounted in pods which can be swiveled and re-positioned easily mids not so much. Ideally all sound sources come from exactly the same point and left, right and sub sources should all ideally be equal distance from each other and the listener. This is nearly always impractical in a car so most of this other stuff we do is just trying to work around not being able to do it. Lastly I've seen one guy who had to keep a sweater rolled up on the hump between the driver and passenger's legs by where a shift knob would be on a manual. This inexplicably tamed a nasty peak he would get otherwise.</p><p></p><p>I really don't know much about the gear you're running nor your source unit so I can't really help you plan around that, but keep in mind these general tips. Always remember the "perfect" sound people want to experience is what you would get in an anechoic chamber (or in the middle of a wide open outdoor area) sitting at the vertex of a perfect equilateral triangle with two full range tower speakers. Anything you're missing is from some limitation of not having an anechoic listening space and not having all the waves from each side and each driver hitting your ears at precisely the same instant.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8711429, member: 614752"] Can and will very quickly. Be extremely careful you keep it to very low power if you're trying to test stuff now. What's jumping out at me looking at your curve is where your nulls are. 150, 300, 1500, and 3000. This leads me to suspect some standing waves being created at those lengths and I'd wager if you could graph up to 15,000 you would see a dip there. As far as "fixing" your response let me first say "if it sounds good it is good". Most people find deal flat RTA not pleasing for listening so if you're not trying to do that for the sake of a competition don't get hung up on it. Now if something sounds wrong it can be a good tool to try to pinpoint the trouble. That being said, you MUST select crossover points before you try to chase down peaks and nulls, and either figure out how to make your amp/source unit do the job or build your own passive crossover network; you can find passive crossover calculators online and buy components at mouser.com (and possibly somewhere in Europe as well). If you want to be snobbish about components chose air core ribbon inductors and poly caps. Otherwise iron core round wire and electrolytic will get the job done just as well. Use ceramic power resistors either way. Peaks can and should be tamed with EQ Nulls in your response may be happening at or around crossover points. If overlapping more causes the null to get worse you can try to move the crossover point and see what that does, overlap less, or start experimenting running things out of phase. Try every single combination, one mid only, one tweet only, both mids, both tweets. It doesn't have to make any sense but I have personally seen this fix things. Location and aiming of drivers is a big limitation in a car and often the most difficult to easily overcome. Tweeters can be mounted in pods which can be swiveled and re-positioned easily mids not so much. Ideally all sound sources come from exactly the same point and left, right and sub sources should all ideally be equal distance from each other and the listener. This is nearly always impractical in a car so most of this other stuff we do is just trying to work around not being able to do it. Lastly I've seen one guy who had to keep a sweater rolled up on the hump between the driver and passenger's legs by where a shift knob would be on a manual. This inexplicably tamed a nasty peak he would get otherwise. I really don't know much about the gear you're running nor your source unit so I can't really help you plan around that, but keep in mind these general tips. Always remember the "perfect" sound people want to experience is what you would get in an anechoic chamber (or in the middle of a wide open outdoor area) sitting at the vertex of a perfect equilateral triangle with two full range tower speakers. Anything you're missing is from some limitation of not having an anechoic listening space and not having all the waves from each side and each driver hitting your ears at precisely the same instant. [/QUOTE]
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