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<blockquote data-quote="Lasherž" data-source="post: 8709093" data-attributes="member: 679555">You can tap the subwoofer&#039;s speaker-level output the same as a speaker, just make sure the LOC can handle the power. Technically it&#039;s true that an LOC will reduce the quality of the bass signal because it will have to re-amplify it, but the way you avoid that is by playing a 50 hz tone and adjusting the fader to find out which speakers don&#039;t produce a tone and avoid them for splicing a signal from. If they produce an audible signal at 50hz then there&#039;s not that much signal loss and the lc2i will be able to easily fix the downsides without noticable differences if set up right. Alternative if you&#039;re that concerned about it you could always get two lc2is or a lc6i and use one sourced from the subwoofer signal and one off the fullest range speakers in the car.In my &#039;14 accord my door speakers produce full range even up to high volumes, while the back speakers have the effect you&#039;re worried about, with pretty much no noise from a 50hz tone. Still I was able to tap the rear speakers for a subwoofer, but I would get a much better result by tapping the door speakers, allowing me to use less bass restoration.Also for a general rule of thumb, I would keep the factory amp unless you want to potentially lose some sounds like door chimes. Sometimes manufacturers will route alternative noise sources through the amp directly rather than through the head unit to mix it, then the amp. It&#039;s best to just get an LOC that can handle slightly amplified speaker wires. The two I mentioned from audiocontrol can handle 400W per channel @ 4 ohms. No factory amp is going to produce that sort of power even for a subwoofer, so you&#039;d be good with those.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Lasherž, post: 8709093, member: 679555"] You can tap the subwoofer's speaker-level output the same as a speaker, just make sure the LOC can handle the power. Technically it's true that an LOC will reduce the quality of the bass signal because it will have to re-amplify it, but the way you avoid that is by playing a 50 hz tone and adjusting the fader to find out which speakers don't produce a tone and avoid them for splicing a signal from. If they produce an audible signal at 50hz then there's not that much signal loss and the lc2i will be able to easily fix the downsides without noticable differences if set up right. Alternative if you're that concerned about it you could always get two lc2is or a lc6i and use one sourced from the subwoofer signal and one off the fullest range speakers in the car. In my '14 accord my door speakers produce full range even up to high volumes, while the back speakers have the effect you're worried about, with pretty much no noise from a 50hz tone. Still I was able to tap the rear speakers for a subwoofer, but I would get a much better result by tapping the door speakers, allowing me to use less bass restoration. Also for a general rule of thumb, I would keep the factory amp unless you want to potentially lose some sounds like door chimes. Sometimes manufacturers will route alternative noise sources through the amp directly rather than through the head unit to mix it, then the amp. It's best to just get an LOC that can handle slightly amplified speaker wires. The two I mentioned from audiocontrol can handle 400W per channel @ 4 ohms. No factory amp is going to produce that sort of power even for a subwoofer, so you'd be good with those. [/QUOTE]

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