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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8649053" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>First off, with a proper head unit, bluetooth is no where near garbage especially with aptx which is literally lossless form of transcoding which flac files are easily transferrable with zero loss.</p><p></p><p>You can have the best source in the world but its not gonna help with anything that actually helps in the car audio world. This is not home audio, in the car audio environment, its a small confined space with lots of hard surfaces that sound reflects on and fabric that sound gets absorbed in. This is relevant because even with Flac files, if the rest of the tune and system is sh*t, it'll sound like sh*t and you'll easily be beaten by someone playing 128kbps youtube streams on a properly tuned setup.</p><p></p><p>Whats a proper tuned setup? first off, You need to have a blend between sub, midrange/midbass and tweeter through active crossovers that can be changed (from the head unit) in order to match the vehicle's acoustics.</p><p></p><p>In car audio you notice the speakers are not equal distance away from each other? This literally screws up any proper center image and soundstage you normally get from a home audio setup where speakers are even distance from you. You'll hear the left side louder and the sound waves reach your ears faster than the right. In car audio, the head unit has time alignment which makes every mid, tweeter and sub's soundwaves hit your ears at the same time creating a virtual soundstage that gives the live concert feel in your car.</p><p></p><p>Again back to vehicle acoustics, with soundwaves from the tweeters and mids bouncing off the dash, windshield etc... you get nasty peaks in the frequency response. The only way to fix this is with an EQ where you tone down offending frequencies. On a more advanced head unit or digital sound processor, you can EQ both the left and right mid/tweeter independantly from eachother.</p><p></p><p>Literally your applepi sounds good in theory but if used by itself, it ends up utterly useless purely due to the chaotic listening environment that is a car. However you can add a digital sound processor to actually do the tuning aspect and then yes the setup will be relevant then. The pre-out voltage of that apple pi is weak as hell too at 2.5volts. Usually prefer 4 + volts in any car system. Yeah man this isnt home audio or headfi audio where you can just focus on a good source and have good sound, this is WAAAAY more advanced and a lot more physics are involved.</p><p></p><p>some things a dsp can do.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/scale/646/646/products/2014/48/975/x975PRODSP-o_other.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8649053, member: 650438"] First off, with a proper head unit, bluetooth is no where near garbage especially with aptx which is literally lossless form of transcoding which flac files are easily transferrable with zero loss. You can have the best source in the world but its not gonna help with anything that actually helps in the car audio world. This is not home audio, in the car audio environment, its a small confined space with lots of hard surfaces that sound reflects on and fabric that sound gets absorbed in. This is relevant because even with Flac files, if the rest of the tune and system is sh*t, it'll sound like sh*t and you'll easily be beaten by someone playing 128kbps youtube streams on a properly tuned setup. Whats a proper tuned setup? first off, You need to have a blend between sub, midrange/midbass and tweeter through active crossovers that can be changed (from the head unit) in order to match the vehicle's acoustics. In car audio you notice the speakers are not equal distance away from each other? This literally screws up any proper center image and soundstage you normally get from a home audio setup where speakers are even distance from you. You'll hear the left side louder and the sound waves reach your ears faster than the right. In car audio, the head unit has time alignment which makes every mid, tweeter and sub's soundwaves hit your ears at the same time creating a virtual soundstage that gives the live concert feel in your car. Again back to vehicle acoustics, with soundwaves from the tweeters and mids bouncing off the dash, windshield etc... you get nasty peaks in the frequency response. The only way to fix this is with an EQ where you tone down offending frequencies. On a more advanced head unit or digital sound processor, you can EQ both the left and right mid/tweeter independantly from eachother. Literally your applepi sounds good in theory but if used by itself, it ends up utterly useless purely due to the chaotic listening environment that is a car. However you can add a digital sound processor to actually do the tuning aspect and then yes the setup will be relevant then. The pre-out voltage of that apple pi is weak as hell too at 2.5volts. Usually prefer 4 + volts in any car system. Yeah man this isnt home audio or headfi audio where you can just focus on a good source and have good sound, this is WAAAAY more advanced and a lot more physics are involved. some things a dsp can do. [IMG]https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/scale/646/646/products/2014/48/975/x975PRODSP-o_other.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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