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<blockquote data-quote="req" data-source="post: 749664" data-attributes="member: 555713"><p>good stuff as always squeak. and thank you mr bill, that all seems on the mark.</p><p></p><p>but people (even myself sometimes //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif ) wont understand what a 'crossover slope' is, unless they SEE a graph of both points, with the rolloffs. this is how they will understand, so this is my contribution.</p><p></p><p><strong>Crossover Points Cont'd</strong> - now you all know that a crossover point is meant to <em>limit</em> each speakers <a href="http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=bandwidth" target="_blank">'bandwidth'</a> so that each speaker can only play that certain range of frequencies, and retain a higher volume and better clarity. this is the reason we use components with passive corssovers, or an active crossover that we can select the exact points.</p><p></p><p>you should also understand that a crossover WILL NOT act as a 'brick wall' and stop the speaker from playing that frequency. a crossover is meant to limit the extenstion of the speaker so that it will not play frequencies it was not designed to play at loud volumes. this means that there will be an 'overlap' of frequencies.</p><p></p><p>for example (and this is ONLY for example, i highly doubt you will see this kind of crossover and respose curves... ever) this is a subwoofer (a GREAT subwoofer mind you //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif ) and a midbass speaker, lets say an 8" speaker.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://img238.exs.cx/img238/7465/frequency1vc.gif" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>as you can see, the point where they 'dip' together is the crossover point (please correct me if im wrong). this point (by looking at the graph) is 80hz. this is normally where people set thier subwoofers and midrange - its practically a 'rule of thumb' to try about 80hz on your frist try, and go up or down from there depending on if <strong>YOU LIKE IT OR NOT</strong>. because noone can tell you what you like and what you dont like. this is 100% subjective.</p><p></p><p>now, as the speakers 'roll off', or start to play the frequencies below\above their crossover points, that frequency will get lower. here is the tricky part. since the other speaker is picking up that frequency as its companion drops it, the music wont sound like there is a giant hole (or it shouldnt if the points are set well).</p><p></p><p><strong>Refrence Level</strong> - this is somthing that people usually dont comprehend eaither. a 'refrence level' stereo system- is a system that can <strong>FULLY REPRODUCE</strong>, at any volume level that it is capable of, 20hz-&gt;20khz with no distortion. now, it may sound easy by reading all this stuff we are teaching you, but its not qute that simple. the '0db' setting most of you see on your home theatre recievers, or stereos, refers to the *CURRENT* volume, or the standard volume, or whatever volume it will produce with how many watts the amplifiers are producing, if you turn the knob down from 0db, you will be <a href="http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=ATTENUATING" target="_blank">ATTENUATING</a> the signal through the amplifier - and thus, your system will more than not, be below 0db. for example, we have a single 10" speaker playing a 50hz tone (in and out 50 times per second), about the middle of the 'sub bass' frequencies. we are feeding it 500 watts of power in whatever box, and whatever car. when we put a microphone in the car, the car reads 100db. that is the pressure level of the air as the speaker moves in and out, its a way to measure volume (as most of you SHOULD know). now, REFRENCE LEVEL, means that <em>EVERY FREQUENCY</em> (or **** near it) should be able to play 100db. so our tweeters playing a tone of 5631.245hz should be able to play 100db, and likewise, the midrange should be able to play 235.654hz at 100db. this is the '0db' mark. say the system is at a volume of 20, and its hitting 96db, ALL FREQUENCIES should be able to play a 96db note. this is refrence level - all your frequencies have a 'FLAT' response curve. and this is what that looks like;</p><p></p><p>flat response (good)</p><p></p><p><img src="http://img238.exs.cx/img238/365/graph10ql.gif" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>versus a peaky and valley response curve (not good)</p><p></p><p><img src="http://img238.exs.cx/img238/7441/graph24fj.gif" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>now, some people LIKE peaks and valleys in certain spots. this is fine. this is why stereos are subjective. some people cant hear distortion (sure //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif ) - and thats fine too. but 0db means at whatever volume that knob is at, an entire 20hz-20khz sweep should mic evenly. it wont be exact. but you get the point.</p><p></p><p>please feel free to add anything that i might have missed. hope it helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="req, post: 749664, member: 555713"] good stuff as always squeak. and thank you mr bill, that all seems on the mark. but people (even myself sometimes [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] ) wont understand what a 'crossover slope' is, unless they SEE a graph of both points, with the rolloffs. this is how they will understand, so this is my contribution. [B]Crossover Points Cont'd[/B] - now you all know that a crossover point is meant to [I]limit[/I] each speakers [URL="http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=bandwidth"]'bandwidth'[/URL] so that each speaker can only play that certain range of frequencies, and retain a higher volume and better clarity. this is the reason we use components with passive corssovers, or an active crossover that we can select the exact points. you should also understand that a crossover WILL NOT act as a 'brick wall' and stop the speaker from playing that frequency. a crossover is meant to limit the extenstion of the speaker so that it will not play frequencies it was not designed to play at loud volumes. this means that there will be an 'overlap' of frequencies. for example (and this is ONLY for example, i highly doubt you will see this kind of crossover and respose curves... ever) this is a subwoofer (a GREAT subwoofer mind you [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif[/IMG] ) and a midbass speaker, lets say an 8" speaker. [IMG]http://img238.exs.cx/img238/7465/frequency1vc.gif[/IMG] as you can see, the point where they 'dip' together is the crossover point (please correct me if im wrong). this point (by looking at the graph) is 80hz. this is normally where people set thier subwoofers and midrange - its practically a 'rule of thumb' to try about 80hz on your frist try, and go up or down from there depending on if [B]YOU LIKE IT OR NOT[/B]. because noone can tell you what you like and what you dont like. this is 100% subjective. now, as the speakers 'roll off', or start to play the frequencies below\above their crossover points, that frequency will get lower. here is the tricky part. since the other speaker is picking up that frequency as its companion drops it, the music wont sound like there is a giant hole (or it shouldnt if the points are set well). [B]Refrence Level[/B] - this is somthing that people usually dont comprehend eaither. a 'refrence level' stereo system- is a system that can [B]FULLY REPRODUCE[/B], at any volume level that it is capable of, 20hz->20khz with no distortion. now, it may sound easy by reading all this stuff we are teaching you, but its not qute that simple. the '0db' setting most of you see on your home theatre recievers, or stereos, refers to the *CURRENT* volume, or the standard volume, or whatever volume it will produce with how many watts the amplifiers are producing, if you turn the knob down from 0db, you will be [URL="http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=ATTENUATING"]ATTENUATING[/URL] the signal through the amplifier - and thus, your system will more than not, be below 0db. for example, we have a single 10" speaker playing a 50hz tone (in and out 50 times per second), about the middle of the 'sub bass' frequencies. we are feeding it 500 watts of power in whatever box, and whatever car. when we put a microphone in the car, the car reads 100db. that is the pressure level of the air as the speaker moves in and out, its a way to measure volume (as most of you SHOULD know). now, REFRENCE LEVEL, means that [I]EVERY FREQUENCY[/I] (or **** near it) should be able to play 100db. so our tweeters playing a tone of 5631.245hz should be able to play 100db, and likewise, the midrange should be able to play 235.654hz at 100db. this is the '0db' mark. say the system is at a volume of 20, and its hitting 96db, ALL FREQUENCIES should be able to play a 96db note. this is refrence level - all your frequencies have a 'FLAT' response curve. and this is what that looks like; flat response (good) [IMG]http://img238.exs.cx/img238/365/graph10ql.gif[/IMG] versus a peaky and valley response curve (not good) [IMG]http://img238.exs.cx/img238/7441/graph24fj.gif[/IMG] now, some people LIKE peaks and valleys in certain spots. this is fine. this is why stereos are subjective. some people cant hear distortion (sure [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif[/IMG] ) - and thats fine too. but 0db means at whatever volume that knob is at, an entire 20hz-20khz sweep should mic evenly. it wont be exact. but you get the point. please feel free to add anything that i might have missed. hope it helps. [/QUOTE]
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