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General Car Audio
Sound deadening doors for Hybrid Audio Technologies Clarus 61-2
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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 7585994" data-attributes="member: 576029"><p><a href="http:////forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/516096-2005-scion-tc-sq-hertz-audison-pioneer-build-log.html" target="_blank">http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/516096-2005-scion-tc-sq-hertz-audison-pioneer-build-log.html</a></p><p></p><p>Here is a good how-to. This car is dead and sounds amazing.</p><p></p><p>I agree the manual is good, Scott is a smart guy.</p><p></p><p>IB doesn't exist in any car. But the term is general describing a speaker that has sufficient suspension to handle being played without an enclosure providing resistance. A car door is just a resonant, leaky enclosure. Deadener reduces the resonance of the door, meaning you won't hear the door ringing.</p><p></p><p>Seals are crucial so you don't have phase interference and you don't have the door panel moving. You won't hear midbass without seals due to cancellation.</p><p></p><p>1. I deaden all metal surfaces until they are sufficiently dead. I do knock tests to listen to the ringing.</p><p></p><p>2. No real such thing as too much deadener. You just reach a point of diminishing returns. Two layers is as much as I'll usually go.</p><p></p><p>3. You want to seal the door holes with a rigid panel, paving with deadener will just flex, acting like a passive radiator. Not good if it is not tuned.</p><p></p><p>4. Foam is absorptive for frequencies who's quarter wavelength is less than the thickness. You can look up absorption coefficients for similar foam products... Not much.</p><p></p><p>I have used silicone to secure 3" thick sheets of polyfil on the outer door skin, taking care to not interfere with the window. It is inert so I didnt have mold issues, even after 2 years. Fiberglass would be better, but it would need to be treated acoustical duct liner to prevent moisture issues.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 7585994, member: 576029"] [URL="http:////forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/516096-2005-scion-tc-sq-hertz-audison-pioneer-build-log.html"]http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/516096-2005-scion-tc-sq-hertz-audison-pioneer-build-log.html[/URL] Here is a good how-to. This car is dead and sounds amazing. I agree the manual is good, Scott is a smart guy. IB doesn't exist in any car. But the term is general describing a speaker that has sufficient suspension to handle being played without an enclosure providing resistance. A car door is just a resonant, leaky enclosure. Deadener reduces the resonance of the door, meaning you won't hear the door ringing. Seals are crucial so you don't have phase interference and you don't have the door panel moving. You won't hear midbass without seals due to cancellation. 1. I deaden all metal surfaces until they are sufficiently dead. I do knock tests to listen to the ringing. 2. No real such thing as too much deadener. You just reach a point of diminishing returns. Two layers is as much as I'll usually go. 3. You want to seal the door holes with a rigid panel, paving with deadener will just flex, acting like a passive radiator. Not good if it is not tuned. 4. Foam is absorptive for frequencies who's quarter wavelength is less than the thickness. You can look up absorption coefficients for similar foam products... Not much. I have used silicone to secure 3" thick sheets of polyfil on the outer door skin, taking care to not interfere with the window. It is inert so I didnt have mold issues, even after 2 years. Fiberglass would be better, but it would need to be treated acoustical duct liner to prevent moisture issues. [/QUOTE]
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Sound deadening doors for Hybrid Audio Technologies Clarus 61-2
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