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<blockquote data-quote="Phatillusion" data-source="post: 22513" data-attributes="member: 541271">Adding to:1) Installation- most important thing, money can buy the best equipment out there, if it isn&#039;t installed right, it won&#039;t sound good.&nbsp; Opposite also applies, cheap&nbsp; equipment, with a good installation can also sound good.2) Mids/Hi&#039;s- All you ever hear people talk about is their subs, w/o good mids/hi&#039;s, you have no system.&nbsp; I suggest leaving the rear fill speakers out of the picture, a good front stage is all you need.&nbsp; Save the money for improvements.3) Caps/Electrical System- A capacitor stores power, if your lights are already dimming, this means you are lacking power, therefore your electrical system has no power to store.&nbsp; You will need more output from your altenator.&nbsp; Check into getting your altenator rewound, or buy a new one.4) Responsiblity- Not everybody wants to hear your system.&nbsp; You think you may be turning heads, when in fact your only turning them so they can get your vehicle description to report you.&nbsp; For every person that&#039;s impressed w/ your loud bass as you go by, I can guarantee there are more than 10x as many that are irritated.&nbsp; There is a time and place to boom, residential/business areas are not the place.5) Wiring/Installation- I suggest going with 8 gauge for 250 RMS and lower, 4 gauge for 250-750, and anything above that 1/0.&nbsp; I typically use 12 gauge for speaker wire.&nbsp; The brand of wire really does not matter, as long as it can carry current.6) DVC/SVC- The only difference here is DVC will allow you more wiring options.&nbsp; There is no audible difference in the two.7) Amps Classes/Basic- Your typical class D amplifier is for your boom, it provides less strain on your electrical system compared with an AB.&nbsp; Most class D amps are stable to 1-ohm, some are only stable to 2-ohms.&nbsp; Class AB amps are a little rough on your electrical system, especially when you have the channels bridged, class AB&#039;s are generally used for mid&#039;s/hi&#039;s, but can also be used for subs.8) Power-&nbsp; Power is power, 500 watts from a RF amp, is the same as 500watts from a pyramid amp, there will be no audible difference in 500 watts from 500 watts.&nbsp; The only difference you will see is RF will tend to underrate their amps, whereas pyramid will overrate.&nbsp; Ex. (RF 500 watt amp could be rated as 475x1) (Pyramid 500 watt amp could be rated as 750x1)9) If you have a question, do a search on this forum, you will be amazed at what we have already discussed, if you find nothing, feel free to ask.&nbsp; Not that we don&#039;t mind answering questions, but the same questions often get repeated, and it&#039;s kinda like getting the &#039;HUH&#039; thing all over again.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Phatillusion, post: 22513, member: 541271"] Adding to: 1) Installation- most important thing, money can buy the best equipment out there, if it isn't installed right, it won't sound good. Opposite also applies, cheap equipment, with a good installation can also sound good. 2) Mids/Hi's- All you ever hear people talk about is their subs, w/o good mids/hi's, you have no system. I suggest leaving the rear fill speakers out of the picture, a good front stage is all you need. Save the money for improvements. 3) Caps/Electrical System- A capacitor stores power, if your lights are already dimming, this means you are lacking power, therefore your electrical system has no power to store. You will need more output from your altenator. Check into getting your altenator rewound, or buy a new one. 4) Responsiblity- Not everybody wants to hear your system. You think you may be turning heads, when in fact your only turning them so they can get your vehicle description to report you. For every person that's impressed w/ your loud bass as you go by, I can guarantee there are more than 10x as many that are irritated. There is a time and place to boom, residential/business areas are not the place. 5) Wiring/Installation- I suggest going with 8 gauge for 250 RMS and lower, 4 gauge for 250-750, and anything above that 1/0. I typically use 12 gauge for speaker wire. The brand of wire really does not matter, as long as it can carry current. 6) DVC/SVC- The only difference here is DVC will allow you more wiring options. There is no audible difference in the two. 7) Amps Classes/Basic- Your typical class D amplifier is for your boom, it provides less strain on your electrical system compared with an AB. Most class D amps are stable to 1-ohm, some are only stable to 2-ohms. Class AB amps are a little rough on your electrical system, especially when you have the channels bridged, class AB's are generally used for mid's/hi's, but can also be used for subs. 8) Power- Power is power, 500 watts from a RF amp, is the same as 500watts from a pyramid amp, there will be no audible difference in 500 watts from 500 watts. The only difference you will see is RF will tend to underrate their amps, whereas pyramid will overrate. Ex. (RF 500 watt amp could be rated as 475x1) (Pyramid 500 watt amp could be rated as 750x1) 9) If you have a question, do a search on this forum, you will be amazed at what we have already discussed, if you find nothing, feel free to ask. Not that we don't mind answering questions, but the same questions often get repeated, and it's kinda like getting the 'HUH' thing all over again. [/QUOTE]

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