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<blockquote data-quote="PV Audio" data-source="post: 3271744" data-attributes="member: 554493">Titebond I is your average woodglue. Compare it to Elmer&#039;s carpenter&#039;s woodglue. It works fine in most applications, and dries very quickly. It also sands very cleanly and doesn&#039;t leave a dark residue like the other titebond glues do. Problem is this, the mechanical strength of the joint is not as high as other glues. It works fine for loudspeaker cabinets, but doesn&#039;t provide as strong a joint as the others do when using it in high SPL applications.Titebond II is your glue of choice. It costs very little more than T1 does, and is significantly stronger. It does take a bit longer to dry, and doesn&#039;t sand as easily. You will notice, however, that if you let it dry runny on the box and don&#039;t sand it, the endgrain will be hard as **** to sand clean. That is what you want, because the glue seeps inside the joints further to create a stronger bond. It usually sets completely in 40 minutes or so, but if you are using screws (I&#039;m not a fan of nails as they don&#039;t bite as well, although they are faster), you can keep working.Titebond III is absolutely useless for us. The only time you would need to use T3 is if you&#039;re trying to glue your house together. It is actually much stronger than T2 by a lot, but you will never need it. It costs almost 2x that of T2, and it takes days to fully cure. It doesn&#039;t dry hard, it dries kind of gummy which is **** near impossible to sand off without taking down a lot of wood with it. There is no situation in car audio where you would need this glue, so just don&#039;t buy it. It may be stronger, but you&#039;ll never know because T2 works fine for anything in car audio.Elmer&#039;s Probond is actually my glue of choice. It is comparable to T2, costs about the same, and holds about the same. Thing is, it&#039;s a bit more viscous so it tends to stay on the wood longer while lining up the panels instead of spilling over. It dries rock hard which makes it incredibly easy to sand, and also allows you to break off the excess while it dries. It seeps into the wood a bit though, so wipe off the excess with a wet towel.Hope this helps.-Dave</blockquote>

[QUOTE="PV Audio, post: 3271744, member: 554493"] Titebond I is your average woodglue. Compare it to Elmer's carpenter's woodglue. It works fine in most applications, and dries very quickly. It also sands very cleanly and doesn't leave a dark residue like the other titebond glues do. Problem is this, the mechanical strength of the joint is not as high as other glues. It works fine for loudspeaker cabinets, but doesn't provide as strong a joint as the others do when using it in high SPL applications. Titebond II is your glue of choice. It costs very little more than T1 does, and is significantly stronger. It does take a bit longer to dry, and doesn't sand as easily. You will notice, however, that if you let it dry runny on the box and don't sand it, the endgrain will be hard as **** to sand clean. That is what you want, because the glue seeps inside the joints further to create a stronger bond. It usually sets completely in 40 minutes or so, but if you are using screws (I'm not a fan of nails as they don't bite as well, although they are faster), you can keep working. Titebond III is absolutely useless for us. The only time you would need to use T3 is if you're trying to glue your house together. It is actually much stronger than T2 by a lot, but you will never need it. It costs almost 2x that of T2, and it takes days to fully cure. It doesn't dry hard, it dries kind of gummy which is **** near impossible to sand off without taking down a lot of wood with it. There is no situation in car audio where you would need this glue, so just don't buy it. It may be stronger, but you'll never know because T2 works fine for anything in car audio. Elmer's Probond is actually my glue of choice. It is comparable to T2, costs about the same, and holds about the same. Thing is, it's a bit more viscous so it tends to stay on the wood longer while lining up the panels instead of spilling over. It dries rock hard which makes it incredibly easy to sand, and also allows you to break off the excess while it dries. It seeps into the wood a bit though, so wipe off the excess with a wet towel. Hope this helps. -Dave [/QUOTE]

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