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Should I run 4 or 8 ohm mids?
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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 7833956" data-attributes="member: 576029"><p>a pair of 8" midbass and one 6.5" midrange can sound great. you can run multiple midbass drivers with no issues. i would have the two 8's low, and the 6.5 above them, aimed near the dome light.</p><p></p><p>keeping airspace separate is still important, but easy to do. those 8's will have the ability to pressurize the door cavity - which would move the 6.5" cone in opposition to the 8's, causing both cancellation and eventually ruining the speaker. with the midbass drivers playing up to 300Hz or so, the 6.5 doesn't need to play as low, so it doesn't need as much airspace. A sealed pod for the midrange would be all you need. Since you're building the doors - your can make that happen pretty easily. The 8's can vent into the door cavity.</p><p></p><p>See my build log for how I recently added PVC encased fiberglass batt to my doors - that small effort made huge gains in midbass by lower the f3 point of the doors (similar to adding fiberglass/fill to a sub enclosure). I would recommend that to anyone looking to lower midbass extension in their doors.</p><p></p><p>always remember what we are trying to achieve when installing speakers - we want to isolate the rear wave from the front (or control/delay it with vented enclosures). The rear wave will combine with the front and cause cancellation. The rear wave has two main paths - 1. through leaks in the enclosure, and 2. reflecting off the rear wall of the enclosure and leaving through the speaker cone (speaker cones have almost no transmission loss, especially at lower frequencies).</p><p></p><p>A good home audio speaker design will use internal baffles and internal fill to separate airspace for mid and midbass, and to reduce the rear wave reflection.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 7833956, member: 576029"] a pair of 8" midbass and one 6.5" midrange can sound great. you can run multiple midbass drivers with no issues. i would have the two 8's low, and the 6.5 above them, aimed near the dome light. keeping airspace separate is still important, but easy to do. those 8's will have the ability to pressurize the door cavity - which would move the 6.5" cone in opposition to the 8's, causing both cancellation and eventually ruining the speaker. with the midbass drivers playing up to 300Hz or so, the 6.5 doesn't need to play as low, so it doesn't need as much airspace. A sealed pod for the midrange would be all you need. Since you're building the doors - your can make that happen pretty easily. The 8's can vent into the door cavity. See my build log for how I recently added PVC encased fiberglass batt to my doors - that small effort made huge gains in midbass by lower the f3 point of the doors (similar to adding fiberglass/fill to a sub enclosure). I would recommend that to anyone looking to lower midbass extension in their doors. always remember what we are trying to achieve when installing speakers - we want to isolate the rear wave from the front (or control/delay it with vented enclosures). The rear wave will combine with the front and cause cancellation. The rear wave has two main paths - 1. through leaks in the enclosure, and 2. reflecting off the rear wall of the enclosure and leaving through the speaker cone (speaker cones have almost no transmission loss, especially at lower frequencies). A good home audio speaker design will use internal baffles and internal fill to separate airspace for mid and midbass, and to reduce the rear wave reflection. [/QUOTE]
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Should I run 4 or 8 ohm mids?
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