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should i get a 20 farad Cap?
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<blockquote data-quote="n2audio" data-source="post: 822327" data-attributes="member: 540940"><p>Would be for me.</p><p></p><p>I'm running 1200-1300w with a 110A</p><p></p><p>Dimming is minimal at idle - full volume.</p><p></p><p>And my car is pretty demanding electrically.</p><p></p><p>For your set up -- Call it 1600w (actual) --</p><p></p><p>1600/70% (ave. full volume efficiency) = 2285w/14v = 165A for peak current draw.</p><p></p><p>For RMS current draw you have to consider the duty cycle of the signal (music) -- I'll use 1/3 as a safe estimate - some music is as low as 1/10.</p><p></p><p>165(1/3) = 55A</p><p></p><p>That's full volume for HEAVY bass music. Assuming you turn it down once in a while and don't listen to Bass Mechanik 24/7 it will require even less current than that.</p><p></p><p>If I had to guess I'd say your 130A is probably good for 70-80A of head room. No reason you should have a problem with that alt.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="n2audio, post: 822327, member: 540940"] Would be for me. I'm running 1200-1300w with a 110A Dimming is minimal at idle - full volume. And my car is pretty demanding electrically. For your set up -- Call it 1600w (actual) -- 1600/70% (ave. full volume efficiency) = 2285w/14v = 165A for peak current draw. For RMS current draw you have to consider the duty cycle of the signal (music) -- I'll use 1/3 as a safe estimate - some music is as low as 1/10. 165(1/3) = 55A That's full volume for HEAVY bass music. Assuming you turn it down once in a while and don't listen to Bass Mechanik 24/7 it will require even less current than that. If I had to guess I'd say your 130A is probably good for 70-80A of head room. No reason you should have a problem with that alt. [/QUOTE]
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should i get a 20 farad Cap?
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