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Should I bi-amp Focal PS165F components?
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<blockquote data-quote="jrodefeld" data-source="post: 8663600" data-attributes="member: 675958"><p>Sorry for the late update. I've resolved some problems, now I've got a slew of others to deal with.</p><p></p><p>First of all, everything's been installed and all the paneling is back on. It was harder than I thought I'd be, but this was my first install.</p><p></p><p>I used sound dampening material (RAAMmat) on all four doors and all over the trunk area where the sub is located. I used a bit under the carpet on the floor, then I ran out. I may get more and finish the floor at a later date, but I think it's enough for now.</p><p></p><p>I thought this wasn't the case, but I confused the antennae wire for the remote turn on wire on the wiring harness. The minute I turned to "TUNER" the amps turned on. Funny thing is, I couldn't actually find a separate remote turn on wire on my harness. So I just spliced the turn on wire off of the red accessory wire and the amps turned on fine as soon as the car was powered on.</p><p></p><p>From what I'm hearing, it would be a good idea to ditch the rear speakers and the crossovers and run everything Active through Network Mode on the 80PRS. ***** that I spent as much time as I did sound dampening the rear doors, fabricating speaker mounts, installing the rear speakers and running new speaker wire! Actually, the sound dampening will make the car quieter at least so not a total loss.</p><p></p><p>If it's not already clear, I'm a bit of a novice at all of this. Given the equipment I have, could you explain how I should have all the amplifier settings?</p><p></p><p>If I'm ditching the Focal crossovers, then which speaker inputs do I attach the left tweeter, left mid-bass, right tweeter and right mid-bass?</p><p></p><p>I guess I don't use the high pass filters on the amplifier, but I'm concerned about damaging the tweeters by sending too much low sounds to them by mistake. Or could they be damaged by too many watts being sent?</p><p></p><p>I really need some detailed instructions on how to install and set up a bi-amped Component set with an 80PRS and the amplifier that I have.</p><p></p><p>The last problem that's frustrating me to no end is that the KS1200.1 no longer works. It doesn't even turn on anymore and I have no idea what I did. Since I figured out the remote turn on wire issue, the amp would always turn on. The light on the side would flash green just as it should.</p><p></p><p>I was unable to get the subwoofer to play, but then I switched from Network mode to regular mode and found the option to turn the subwoofer on, then it worked. For about a day. I never adjusted anything, but the gain and bass boost were at their lowest setting or close to it.</p><p></p><p>When I felt satisfied that everything was finally working, I set about putting all the paneling back on. I had to slightly re-route some cables and change some ground points to get all the paneling to snap back on.</p><p></p><p>Since then the KS1200.1 won't turn on at all.</p><p></p><p>Any idea what could be causing that? I did have a capacitor installed in front of the KS1200.1, if that makes any difference. I've since tried to power it up without the capacitor, and with different ground points and power cables attached. Nothings happening.</p><p></p><p>Any help you could give about this, and the other problems I mentioned, would be very appreciated.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jrodefeld, post: 8663600, member: 675958"] Sorry for the late update. I've resolved some problems, now I've got a slew of others to deal with. First of all, everything's been installed and all the paneling is back on. It was harder than I thought I'd be, but this was my first install. I used sound dampening material (RAAMmat) on all four doors and all over the trunk area where the sub is located. I used a bit under the carpet on the floor, then I ran out. I may get more and finish the floor at a later date, but I think it's enough for now. I thought this wasn't the case, but I confused the antennae wire for the remote turn on wire on the wiring harness. The minute I turned to "TUNER" the amps turned on. Funny thing is, I couldn't actually find a separate remote turn on wire on my harness. So I just spliced the turn on wire off of the red accessory wire and the amps turned on fine as soon as the car was powered on. From what I'm hearing, it would be a good idea to ditch the rear speakers and the crossovers and run everything Active through Network Mode on the 80PRS. ***** that I spent as much time as I did sound dampening the rear doors, fabricating speaker mounts, installing the rear speakers and running new speaker wire! Actually, the sound dampening will make the car quieter at least so not a total loss. If it's not already clear, I'm a bit of a novice at all of this. Given the equipment I have, could you explain how I should have all the amplifier settings? If I'm ditching the Focal crossovers, then which speaker inputs do I attach the left tweeter, left mid-bass, right tweeter and right mid-bass? I guess I don't use the high pass filters on the amplifier, but I'm concerned about damaging the tweeters by sending too much low sounds to them by mistake. Or could they be damaged by too many watts being sent? I really need some detailed instructions on how to install and set up a bi-amped Component set with an 80PRS and the amplifier that I have. The last problem that's frustrating me to no end is that the KS1200.1 no longer works. It doesn't even turn on anymore and I have no idea what I did. Since I figured out the remote turn on wire issue, the amp would always turn on. The light on the side would flash green just as it should. I was unable to get the subwoofer to play, but then I switched from Network mode to regular mode and found the option to turn the subwoofer on, then it worked. For about a day. I never adjusted anything, but the gain and bass boost were at their lowest setting or close to it. When I felt satisfied that everything was finally working, I set about putting all the paneling back on. I had to slightly re-route some cables and change some ground points to get all the paneling to snap back on. Since then the KS1200.1 won't turn on at all. Any idea what could be causing that? I did have a capacitor installed in front of the KS1200.1, if that makes any difference. I've since tried to power it up without the capacitor, and with different ground points and power cables attached. Nothings happening. Any help you could give about this, and the other problems I mentioned, would be very appreciated. [/QUOTE]
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Should I bi-amp Focal PS165F components?
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