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Shaker 500 replacement help
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<blockquote data-quote="Jimg" data-source="post: 8742335" data-attributes="member: 676695"><p>CoolHand</p><p>nothing personal taken</p><p>I agree with you most all of what you said</p><p></p><p>But everything you just said probably took a $600 budget to probably close to double the cost to do or more ???</p><p></p><p>The shaker 500 system has an external factory amp Mine was located down by the kick panel on the driver side. This is the problem with the system.</p><p>New speaker wire has to be ran and or tapped into to get everything wired up</p><p></p><p>we tapped into the upper door speaker by going behind the head unit at the wiring harness</p><p></p><p>we tapped into the subwoofer wires out of the sub amp to get to the door subs where we placed the 6 1/2</p><p></p><p></p><p>ran new wires up the a pillar to do the</p><p></p><p></p><p>If the budget is $500 or so</p><p>Not many things I would change on the original recommendation. , possible a different brand amp?</p><p>if someone is able to build their own box I would use the blaupunkt 10 inch sub </p><p></p><p>The Skar Sub box they build Probably not going to break itself apart on a single 10 inch 200 watt Rms Sub</p><p>I would probably not use a high power sub in any prefab box</p><p></p><p> if running 150 watts or less with no clipping the sub would probably do just fine and hold up over time</p><p></p><p>both of the setups that we used the skar in Sound fine. Actually they sound Good</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>if the budget was$1000 to $1500 then I would recommend something else</p><p> Probably the pioneer amp setup and </p><p>Different subwoofers</p><p></p><p></p><p>If budget was $1500-2000 I would recommended something else</p><p></p><p>$2000-2500 something else</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I see a lot of post where someone With very little knowledge and new to car audio forums</p><p></p><p>ask hey I want a basic subwoofer option can I get some help From everyone here</p><p></p><p>Then they get hit with don’t buy that $60 sub</p><p>Buy this $180 sub. It is much better</p><p></p><p>then every One hits them with don’t do the LOC converter they ****</p><p></p><p>you must do a dsp </p><p></p><p>Don’t do a a two way component speaker passive that *****. Instead do a full active three way setup with three different amps</p><p>Also now that you have went active with a lot of power now you need 0 gauge welding cable And all the parts that go with tha</p><p>Don’t use use cheap RCA’s. Go with knu konceptz krystal. Now you need 6 of them </p><p>Don’t use CCA wire it is trash only use ofc copper or get out of town</p><p>Now you have voltage drop. Need to upgrade to an AGM battery or two of them</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>ect. Ect ect.</p><p></p><p>Now they are at $3000 And they have to halfway know what they are doing to get everything installed </p><p></p><p>I kid you not I asked a very basic speaker question on a Toyota Tundra install</p><p></p><p>I asked what is a good component speakerfor around $500</p><p>i am putting in a JVC Z1000 headunit That has a ton of tuning options.</p><p>I am going to use a subwoofer amp With one 10 behind the rear seat</p><p>One 4 channel amp to go active off the headunit to a tweeter and a 6 1/2</p><p></p><p>I wanted to know what options are recommended on a decent tweeter midrange two way component setup</p><p>Something in the $500 range </p><p>Just a tweeter in the sail panel </p><p>And a 6 1/2 in the door </p><p></p><p>First response was don’t do that </p><p>I was hit with need to do a 3 way active</p><p>And go buy this additional equipment </p><p></p><p>They did not even give me the answer to the original question</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jimg, post: 8742335, member: 676695"] CoolHand nothing personal taken I agree with you most all of what you said But everything you just said probably took a $600 budget to probably close to double the cost to do or more ??? The shaker 500 system has an external factory amp Mine was located down by the kick panel on the driver side. This is the problem with the system. New speaker wire has to be ran and or tapped into to get everything wired up we tapped into the upper door speaker by going behind the head unit at the wiring harness we tapped into the subwoofer wires out of the sub amp to get to the door subs where we placed the 6 1/2 ran new wires up the a pillar to do the If the budget is $500 or so Not many things I would change on the original recommendation. , possible a different brand amp? if someone is able to build their own box I would use the blaupunkt 10 inch sub The Skar Sub box they build Probably not going to break itself apart on a single 10 inch 200 watt Rms Sub I would probably not use a high power sub in any prefab box if running 150 watts or less with no clipping the sub would probably do just fine and hold up over time both of the setups that we used the skar in Sound fine. Actually they sound Good if the budget was$1000 to $1500 then I would recommend something else Probably the pioneer amp setup and Different subwoofers If budget was $1500-2000 I would recommended something else $2000-2500 something else I see a lot of post where someone With very little knowledge and new to car audio forums ask hey I want a basic subwoofer option can I get some help From everyone here Then they get hit with don’t buy that $60 sub Buy this $180 sub. It is much better then every One hits them with don’t do the LOC converter they **** you must do a dsp Don’t do a a two way component speaker passive that *****. Instead do a full active three way setup with three different amps Also now that you have went active with a lot of power now you need 0 gauge welding cable And all the parts that go with tha Don’t use use cheap RCA’s. Go with knu konceptz krystal. Now you need 6 of them Don’t use CCA wire it is trash only use ofc copper or get out of town Now you have voltage drop. Need to upgrade to an AGM battery or two of them ect. Ect ect. Now they are at $3000 And they have to halfway know what they are doing to get everything installed I kid you not I asked a very basic speaker question on a Toyota Tundra install I asked what is a good component speakerfor around $500 i am putting in a JVC Z1000 headunit That has a ton of tuning options. I am going to use a subwoofer amp With one 10 behind the rear seat One 4 channel amp to go active off the headunit to a tweeter and a 6 1/2 I wanted to know what options are recommended on a decent tweeter midrange two way component setup Something in the $500 range Just a tweeter in the sail panel And a 6 1/2 in the door First response was don’t do that I was hit with need to do a 3 way active And go buy this additional equipment They did not even give me the answer to the original question [/QUOTE]
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