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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Series-parallel wiring and sub heat/smell
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<blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8767456" data-attributes="member: 614752"><p>Because drilling a couple holes in the pole piece or whatever isn't really pushing that much more air over the coil than just a solid pole piece and the air pushed in and out from under the dustcap and convection is not a terribly efficient way to remove heat from something. 10% heat is nothing when you consider that 10% more power may not even gain 0.2dB on the meter and certainly will not be audible. That and nearly everything we can do to make a coil hold more heat will tank efficiency so you rapidly approach a point where companies produce 6" 8 layer coils with spiffy looking """vents""" so that people can dick-measure about their sub that can "take 8,000W" all the while a DD-Z or Sundown Neo is getting louder off of 1500W. There's a reason the DB Drag leaderboard at the very top has been almost exclusively populated by 3" 4 layer coils for the past couple decades now.</p><p></p><p>I can't say I have done loads of prototyping of motor designs or anything so I certainly can't quantify it, but I've been told by someone who has that there's not all that much difference and so far I have yet to see any product on the market that's really beating the trend as far as holding heat when you compare physical size/mass/materials of the coil just for an aerodynamic looking frame and a few holes through the top plate. As you say, I think pole venting is mostly to deal with air pressure, and I've heard credible reports of people gaining by gorilla taping over pole vents in their subs (not always of course, but the point is the venting does change performance on tones in a box). Again, what's 10-15% more power when you get to the meter? What's even 20%? You'll need more like 50% to be audible and nobody is claiming that. </p><p></p><p>The thing people really need to wrap their heads around is how much heat 1200W is. 1200W is the small burner on your stove glowing red. Obviously the stove element is designed to be efficient at turning all energy in into thermal energy out, and there's inherent radiation, conduction, and convection cooling going on by just the basic construction of a loudspeaker and the laws of nature, but beyond that it's still just a shitload of heat to try to shed faster than it's being applied and a loudspeaker is wildly inefficient at turning electrical energy in to acoustic energy out with the stellar performers only coming in in the 2% efficiency neighborhood.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hispls, post: 8767456, member: 614752"] Because drilling a couple holes in the pole piece or whatever isn't really pushing that much more air over the coil than just a solid pole piece and the air pushed in and out from under the dustcap and convection is not a terribly efficient way to remove heat from something. 10% heat is nothing when you consider that 10% more power may not even gain 0.2dB on the meter and certainly will not be audible. That and nearly everything we can do to make a coil hold more heat will tank efficiency so you rapidly approach a point where companies produce 6" 8 layer coils with spiffy looking """vents""" so that people can dick-measure about their sub that can "take 8,000W" all the while a DD-Z or Sundown Neo is getting louder off of 1500W. There's a reason the DB Drag leaderboard at the very top has been almost exclusively populated by 3" 4 layer coils for the past couple decades now. I can't say I have done loads of prototyping of motor designs or anything so I certainly can't quantify it, but I've been told by someone who has that there's not all that much difference and so far I have yet to see any product on the market that's really beating the trend as far as holding heat when you compare physical size/mass/materials of the coil just for an aerodynamic looking frame and a few holes through the top plate. As you say, I think pole venting is mostly to deal with air pressure, and I've heard credible reports of people gaining by gorilla taping over pole vents in their subs (not always of course, but the point is the venting does change performance on tones in a box). Again, what's 10-15% more power when you get to the meter? What's even 20%? You'll need more like 50% to be audible and nobody is claiming that. The thing people really need to wrap their heads around is how much heat 1200W is. 1200W is the small burner on your stove glowing red. Obviously the stove element is designed to be efficient at turning all energy in into thermal energy out, and there's inherent radiation, conduction, and convection cooling going on by just the basic construction of a loudspeaker and the laws of nature, but beyond that it's still just a shitload of heat to try to shed faster than it's being applied and a loudspeaker is wildly inefficient at turning electrical energy in to acoustic energy out with the stellar performers only coming in in the 2% efficiency neighborhood. [/QUOTE]
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