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series or parallel?
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<blockquote data-quote="helotaxi" data-source="post: 1470126" data-attributes="member: 550915"><p>A few comments...</p><p></p><p>First, the immature BS in this thread is an example of 99% of the reason that so many people see this forum as a noob forum. The idiots who just troll around trying to start crap run off the majority of the people who actually know anything and want to have an intelligent discussion without having to put up with a bunch of children.</p><p></p><p>Second, all of the intelligent posts made in this thread have valid points. BL is halved when the coils are wired in parallel, however with equal power, the current is double at 1/4 the impedance so the total motive force (BL*I) is still the same. Also as mentioned, many Class D amp have a hard time with cone control because of a terrible damping factor, especially at low impedances. Class D amps are not good in an SQ install, IMO, even on subs.</p><p></p><p>Traditional SQ subs were designed to be efficient and accurate and to work in a particular type of enclosure (sealed/ported). Most all JL subs ever built, W7 series being the notable exception, fall into this category. To get the best sound out of them (they are SQ drivers by design) they should be used in a small to medium sealed enclosure and given only a modest amount of power. This is the source of most of the complaints about JL, the complainers want them to be something that they are not. They are meant to sound good at moderate volume while listening to music. They are not SPL subs and are not meant to rattle windows and soak up a ton of power and most complaints that I have heard come from people expecting them to do just that citing that since they are so expensive, they should do whatever I want them to do. That's like saying that a Bentley is a hunk of crap becuase it can't go off-road like a 4X4.</p><p></p><p>The newer supersubs are designed to get loud and sound good while doing it. One of the major tradeoffs is efficiency. To get loud the sub needs to be able to handle a lot of power, relatively easy from a thermal perspective, but not so from a mechanical one. To survive the sub needed to have tough suspension that was realtively non compliant. To keep a realtively low Fs with a stiff suspension the moving mass had to increase which needed a stiffer suspension to support and the downward spiral begins. As a result the Fs of most of the big subs are relatively high, but other factors allow them to overcome that through basically brute force to still perform as a subwoofer. Most all of these subs WILL loosen up as they are played. The resin in the spider cracks as the sub moves and its stiffness is decreased proportionally. This can take a short time if you really wail on it or a long time if you listen at lower volumes. For example, my XXX has taken almost 18 mos to break in fully because I hardly run any power to it rarely turn it up that loud. The Diamonds are the same way. They are really stiff out of the box but run them for awhile and they WILL loosen up.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="helotaxi, post: 1470126, member: 550915"] A few comments... First, the immature BS in this thread is an example of 99% of the reason that so many people see this forum as a noob forum. The idiots who just troll around trying to start crap run off the majority of the people who actually know anything and want to have an intelligent discussion without having to put up with a bunch of children. Second, all of the intelligent posts made in this thread have valid points. BL is halved when the coils are wired in parallel, however with equal power, the current is double at 1/4 the impedance so the total motive force (BL*I) is still the same. Also as mentioned, many Class D amp have a hard time with cone control because of a terrible damping factor, especially at low impedances. Class D amps are not good in an SQ install, IMO, even on subs. Traditional SQ subs were designed to be efficient and accurate and to work in a particular type of enclosure (sealed/ported). Most all JL subs ever built, W7 series being the notable exception, fall into this category. To get the best sound out of them (they are SQ drivers by design) they should be used in a small to medium sealed enclosure and given only a modest amount of power. This is the source of most of the complaints about JL, the complainers want them to be something that they are not. They are meant to sound good at moderate volume while listening to music. They are not SPL subs and are not meant to rattle windows and soak up a ton of power and most complaints that I have heard come from people expecting them to do just that citing that since they are so expensive, they should do whatever I want them to do. That's like saying that a Bentley is a hunk of crap becuase it can't go off-road like a 4X4. The newer supersubs are designed to get loud and sound good while doing it. One of the major tradeoffs is efficiency. To get loud the sub needs to be able to handle a lot of power, relatively easy from a thermal perspective, but not so from a mechanical one. To survive the sub needed to have tough suspension that was realtively non compliant. To keep a realtively low Fs with a stiff suspension the moving mass had to increase which needed a stiffer suspension to support and the downward spiral begins. As a result the Fs of most of the big subs are relatively high, but other factors allow them to overcome that through basically brute force to still perform as a subwoofer. Most all of these subs WILL loosen up as they are played. The resin in the spider cracks as the sub moves and its stiffness is decreased proportionally. This can take a short time if you really wail on it or a long time if you listen at lower volumes. For example, my XXX has taken almost 18 mos to break in fully because I hardly run any power to it rarely turn it up that loud. The Diamonds are the same way. They are really stiff out of the box but run them for awhile and they WILL loosen up. [/QUOTE]
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