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<blockquote data-quote="VereChronicus" data-source="post: 1446609" data-attributes="member: 565864"><p>Stones: each sub works separately in that fashion, it just comes down to how many coils are attached physically to one piston. so you can infact wire one sub to another or 10 more and other than working with the coupling factors in regards to enclosure volume equivalence to compliance, and it will only effectively change the sound via the higher or lower output impedance of the amplifier and it&#039;s slew rates, damping etc. etc. and their effect on the sound of the system. most of my customers don&#039;t walk in the door with the ability to differentiate slop from source-true performance, as is the same with most system designers and their customers. If i can get a setup to 4ohms versus 1ohm with the same output to the ears of my customer, that&#039;s what i&#039;ll do. this is in regards to the fact that MOST 1ohm D class amplifiers can&#039;t control themselves, much less control a sub or quantity of subs in a vented enclosure. btw, i vent whenever possible. free spl, just years of recording the outcome has given us a database of what certain enclosure types and tuning frequencies will do in a given type of car. there would be guys that&#039;d jump all over a post saying that we built an enclosure tuned to 45Hz for daily driving for a customer that loves to pound out 32Hz notes all day. they would not get the fact that that enclosure goes 5&quot; away from the rear wall with a 2&quot; equivalent loading chamber for the front of the subwoofer which will effectively expand our frequency response down another 10Hz +/- 2dB in that Ford Taurus.</p></blockquote><p></p>

[QUOTE="VereChronicus, post: 1446609, member: 565864"] Stones: each sub works separately in that fashion, it just comes down to how many coils are attached physically to one piston. so you can infact wire one sub to another or 10 more and other than working with the coupling factors in regards to enclosure volume equivalence to compliance, and it will only effectively change the sound via the higher or lower output impedance of the amplifier and it's slew rates, damping etc. etc. and their effect on the sound of the system. most of my customers don't walk in the door with the ability to differentiate slop from source-true performance, as is the same with most system designers and their customers. If i can get a setup to 4ohms versus 1ohm with the same output to the ears of my customer, that's what i'll do. this is in regards to the fact that MOST 1ohm D class amplifiers can't control themselves, much less control a sub or quantity of subs in a vented enclosure. btw, i vent whenever possible. free spl, just years of recording the outcome has given us a database of what certain enclosure types and tuning frequencies will do in a given type of car. there would be guys that'd jump all over a post saying that we built an enclosure tuned to 45Hz for daily driving for a customer that loves to pound out 32Hz notes all day. they would not get the fact that that enclosure goes 5" away from the rear wall with a 2" equivalent loading chamber for the front of the subwoofer which will effectively expand our frequency response down another 10Hz +/- 2dB in that Ford Taurus. [/QUOTE]

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