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SA-8 vs. 1508???
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<blockquote data-quote="sundownz" data-source="post: 6867019" data-attributes="member: 549523"><p>The coil of the SA-8 can't bottom out but you can hit the triple joint ring against the top plate (there is a ring under the spider that supports the triple joint and makes it nearly impossible to break) if you move the driver far enough to actually stretch the spider material a little bit... I tooled the small plastic ring under the frame to increase the distance for this to happen but we've done it on 2500+ watt burp.</p><p></p><p>---</p><p></p><p>Tommy,</p><p></p><p>If I was building the 8s here I'd have them sanded to bare metal (I do that when I re-cone them and I also use CA glue) -- since I am not making them here it came out simpler to tool the steel bolt down ring -- it's easier for the build house to do the ring than add sanding to the build process. They could also do the epoxy trick but as you have noted that can still be broken with enough abuse!</p><p></p><p>The spider glue is really fairly strong (not as strong as CA glue but works well in general) as it never fails on SA-12s but the 8s have just as much motor force with MUCH less glue surface area to hang on. The bolt down ring will take care of heavy abusers like us //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif</p><p></p><p>As for making the spider stiffer... I could stack two spider packs (they are already two spiders laminated) and cut the leads off of one so they stack (as they come with leads)... that would be absolutely ridiculously stiff but we can try it at some point.</p><p></p><p>---</p><p></p><p>Oh yah - pics of the bolt down ring :</p><p></p><p>It sits on top of the spider insider of the top lip on the frame and bolts in from the back - this way the cone can't come down and smack the bolt heads.</p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/protos/SA-8/Bolt_Down/DSC03310.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p><img src="http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/protos/SA-8/Bolt_Down/DSC03313.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="sundownz, post: 6867019, member: 549523"] The coil of the SA-8 can't bottom out but you can hit the triple joint ring against the top plate (there is a ring under the spider that supports the triple joint and makes it nearly impossible to break) if you move the driver far enough to actually stretch the spider material a little bit... I tooled the small plastic ring under the frame to increase the distance for this to happen but we've done it on 2500+ watt burp. --- Tommy, If I was building the 8s here I'd have them sanded to bare metal (I do that when I re-cone them and I also use CA glue) -- since I am not making them here it came out simpler to tool the steel bolt down ring -- it's easier for the build house to do the ring than add sanding to the build process. They could also do the epoxy trick but as you have noted that can still be broken with enough abuse! The spider glue is really fairly strong (not as strong as CA glue but works well in general) as it never fails on SA-12s but the 8s have just as much motor force with MUCH less glue surface area to hang on. The bolt down ring will take care of heavy abusers like us [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] As for making the spider stiffer... I could stack two spider packs (they are already two spiders laminated) and cut the leads off of one so they stack (as they come with leads)... that would be absolutely ridiculously stiff but we can try it at some point. --- Oh yah - pics of the bolt down ring : It sits on top of the spider insider of the top lip on the frame and bolts in from the back - this way the cone can't come down and smack the bolt heads. [IMG]http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/protos/SA-8/Bolt_Down/DSC03310.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/protos/SA-8/Bolt_Down/DSC03313.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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