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General Car Audio
replacing stock sub/amp
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<blockquote data-quote="Alrojoca" data-source="post: 8073904" data-attributes="member: 638714"><p>You can use a good 4 channel amp, your basic 50X4 amp with the rear channels bridge will deliver about 150 watts at 4 ohms, your sub should be 4 ohms too or you could fry your amp. The Hu can drive the rear speakers. Most entry to mid level 8 inch subs from known companies like JBL, Infinity, Polk, Kicker etc handle 200-250W, 150 watts should be enough to drive it, unless the sub is inefficient with a sensitivity below 87db spl in that case you may need more power.</p><p></p><p>I would not put a very expensive sub or a sub handling more than 250W in an existing factory enclosure, it may not work. And if the enclosure is plastic or it was driven by less that 50W RMS chances are it will not give you good results adding a 200w rms sub and driving it with more than 100watts rms. I would look for a sub from a good manufacturer that handles 150-250 watts that has an sensitivity spl above 89db, the higher the better, very few go above 91db.</p><p></p><p>I would only go with a 5 channel amp if you had the room and you really want to power the rear speakers with an amp, I would avoid it just because things get more complicated and expensive when you you start adding power to more speakers, since you may get more rattles and setting and dialing it gets more complex, besides the fact that rear speakers just fill the rear cabin and the ones sitting in the front will not quite hear them well since they point usually below knee level.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Alrojoca, post: 8073904, member: 638714"] You can use a good 4 channel amp, your basic 50X4 amp with the rear channels bridge will deliver about 150 watts at 4 ohms, your sub should be 4 ohms too or you could fry your amp. The Hu can drive the rear speakers. Most entry to mid level 8 inch subs from known companies like JBL, Infinity, Polk, Kicker etc handle 200-250W, 150 watts should be enough to drive it, unless the sub is inefficient with a sensitivity below 87db spl in that case you may need more power. I would not put a very expensive sub or a sub handling more than 250W in an existing factory enclosure, it may not work. And if the enclosure is plastic or it was driven by less that 50W RMS chances are it will not give you good results adding a 200w rms sub and driving it with more than 100watts rms. I would look for a sub from a good manufacturer that handles 150-250 watts that has an sensitivity spl above 89db, the higher the better, very few go above 91db. I would only go with a 5 channel amp if you had the room and you really want to power the rear speakers with an amp, I would avoid it just because things get more complicated and expensive when you you start adding power to more speakers, since you may get more rattles and setting and dialing it gets more complex, besides the fact that rear speakers just fill the rear cabin and the ones sitting in the front will not quite hear them well since they point usually below knee level. [/QUOTE]
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