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<blockquote data-quote="jlaine" data-source="post: 62756" data-attributes="member: 542392"><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong>Where on earth do you live? Everywhere in the US I've ever dealt with is either 100 amp service, or 200 amp service, never have I dealt with this 110 amp service. </strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong>Completely incorrect. </strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong>P = V^2/R this is the formula used for calculating output energy, you know why? We always use it for bench testing amplifiers, this is globally accepted. </strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong>P = I * E</strong></p><p></p><p><strong>The fets in most amplifiers are rated well above the current they actually put out, but it's their output voltage that matters. Therein lies the factual power behind an amplifier. I can send 200 amps of power into a speaker at 5 volts, and 1 amp of power into it at 5 volts, and the cone will be proportioned to move the same amount... Wave amplitude is what we are after...</strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong>Not to the proportion you are attempting to portray. </strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong>20 amps out of a 200 watt amplifier is a complete crock. I don't even have to get my fluke clampmeter out to disprove this, I already know it's incorrect...</strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong>Average house electrical appliaces 5 amps being large? I can think of a few...</strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong>Fridge, about 10</strong></p><p></p><p><strong>Blender, about 7</strong></p><p></p><p><strong>Microwave, about 15</strong></p><p></p><p><strong>Diswasher, varies, around 5 - 15</strong></p><p></p><p><strong>Oven, electrical style, anywhere from 15 - 30</strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong>Other problem with this, total power (5 amps at 14V) and (5 amps at 120V) is drastically and completely different.</strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong>They don't need them. Gains are voltage controls. Why do they have larger inputs? What do you think it takes to get from 12V DC to 120VAC? There is some serious amplitude modification, the amount of decibel gain requires some serious voltage jumps. Why do you think everyone measures the pots at dBv? Why do you think pro amps measure their rated power by the voltage gain?</strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong>Wait a minute, you said the speakers need to handle a 10 amp current draw, now suddenly it's the power supply... We need for you to get your facts straight... Either its the speaker taking the 10 amps (incorrect) or the power supply drawing the 10 amps and feeding the mosfets on the output stage. (correct.)</strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p> <strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong>Then you should know you are incorrect in your output theories...</strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p><strong>To a speaker? Hell yes...</strong></p><p></p><p><strong> </strong></p><p></p><p></p><p>Again incorrect. The design is fine. You think the pathetically small amount of distortion introduced by that fuse, or the ridiculously marginal amount of voltage drop is going to matter at 1600W? I'll gladly sit you down, double blind test you , to try and tell me which wire has a fuse in line with it, and which doesn't, because I know you'll fail, as would I.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jlaine, post: 62756, member: 542392"] [B] [/B] [B]Where on earth do you live? Everywhere in the US I've ever dealt with is either 100 amp service, or 200 amp service, never have I dealt with this 110 amp service. [/B] [B] [/B] [B] [/B] [B]Completely incorrect. [/B] [B] [/B] [B]P = V^2/R this is the formula used for calculating output energy, you know why? We always use it for bench testing amplifiers, this is globally accepted. [/B] [B] [/B] [B]P = I * E[/B] [B]The fets in most amplifiers are rated well above the current they actually put out, but it's their output voltage that matters. Therein lies the factual power behind an amplifier. I can send 200 amps of power into a speaker at 5 volts, and 1 amp of power into it at 5 volts, and the cone will be proportioned to move the same amount... Wave amplitude is what we are after...[/B] [B] [/B] [B]Not to the proportion you are attempting to portray. [/B] [B] [/B] [B]20 amps out of a 200 watt amplifier is a complete crock. I don't even have to get my fluke clampmeter out to disprove this, I already know it's incorrect...[/B] [B] [/B] [B]Average house electrical appliaces 5 amps being large? I can think of a few...[/B] [B] [/B] [B]Fridge, about 10[/B] [B]Blender, about 7[/B] [B]Microwave, about 15[/B] [B]Diswasher, varies, around 5 - 15[/B] [B]Oven, electrical style, anywhere from 15 - 30[/B] [B] [/B] [B]Other problem with this, total power (5 amps at 14V) and (5 amps at 120V) is drastically and completely different.[/B] [B] [/B] [B] [/B] [B]They don't need them. Gains are voltage controls. Why do they have larger inputs? What do you think it takes to get from 12V DC to 120VAC? There is some serious amplitude modification, the amount of decibel gain requires some serious voltage jumps. Why do you think everyone measures the pots at dBv? Why do you think pro amps measure their rated power by the voltage gain?[/B] [B] [/B] [B] [/B] [B]Wait a minute, you said the speakers need to handle a 10 amp current draw, now suddenly it's the power supply... We need for you to get your facts straight... Either its the speaker taking the 10 amps (incorrect) or the power supply drawing the 10 amps and feeding the mosfets on the output stage. (correct.)[/B] [B] [/B] [B] [/B][B] [/B] [B]Then you should know you are incorrect in your output theories...[/B] [B] [/B] [B] [/B] [B]To a speaker? Hell yes...[/B] [B] [/B] Again incorrect. The design is fine. You think the pathetically small amount of distortion introduced by that fuse, or the ridiculously marginal amount of voltage drop is going to matter at 1600W? I'll gladly sit you down, double blind test you , to try and tell me which wire has a fuse in line with it, and which doesn't, because I know you'll fail, as would I. [/QUOTE]
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