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<blockquote data-quote="fithwheel" data-source="post: 8672037" data-attributes="member: 674179">Unfortunately it takes space to make bass. Under seat enclosures are a waist of time imo. Even in the video D said to the kicker rep you should throw these away. They&#039;re the best selling because people don&#039;t want to give up space. Personally I watch a lot of their videos they know head units and do a pretty good job on their installs but when it comes to enclosures and their recommendations I take it with a grain of salt. Really depends on goals I guess but the little under seat subs pre assembled have no chance of getting low with any kind of authority.If I needed a lot of sound deadening material I&#039;d go with noico. Not the thickest deadening but good for those on a budget.I&#039;d look for speakers that have a sensitivity rating of around 90 db since you&#039;re using hu power. You could use raw drivers too. If you can make  baffles it opens up options. You&#039;ll have to figure out what will fit. Crutchfield is handy for figuring out what will easily fit without taking the door panels off but since you&#039;re taking them off you can simply measure then find some raw drivers that&#039;ll work. Passive Crossovers can be an issue but I&#039;ve used  pre assembled dayton crossovers before. Ideally you&#039;d want an active crossover but it is what it is. Using raw drivers is an economical option for sure. If you go that route I&#039;d try to match the sensitivity of the mids to the tweeters but you could use an L pad I suppose or eq the tweeters down if they&#039;re to bright. There&#039;s other was to tone down tweeters but if you can get close sensitivity it just  makes it easier.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="fithwheel, post: 8672037, member: 674179"] Unfortunately it takes space to make bass. Under seat enclosures are a waist of time imo. Even in the video D said to the kicker rep you should throw these away. They're the best selling because people don't want to give up space. Personally I watch a lot of their videos they know head units and do a pretty good job on their installs but when it comes to enclosures and their recommendations I take it with a grain of salt. Really depends on goals I guess but the little under seat subs pre assembled have no chance of getting low with any kind of authority. If I needed a lot of sound deadening material I'd go with noico. Not the thickest deadening but good for those on a budget. I'd look for speakers that have a sensitivity rating of around 90 db since you're using hu power. You could use raw drivers too. If you can make baffles it opens up options. You'll have to figure out what will fit. Crutchfield is handy for figuring out what will easily fit without taking the door panels off but since you're taking them off you can simply measure then find some raw drivers that'll work. Passive Crossovers can be an issue but I've used pre assembled dayton crossovers before. Ideally you'd want an active crossover but it is what it is. Using raw drivers is an economical option for sure. If you go that route I'd try to match the sensitivity of the mids to the tweeters but you could use an L pad I suppose or eq the tweeters down if they're to bright. There's other was to tone down tweeters but if you can get close sensitivity it just makes it easier. [/QUOTE]

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