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Questions about upgrading setup…?
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8888516" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>If you run a sealed box, turn the HP (subsonic) filter all the way down or off. That filter is meant to assist in the prevention of over excursion and overworking of the driver in a ported box and has little to no impact in a sealed box. I prefer to stuff my sealed boxes as it sounds better. Not everything you hear is measurable.</p><p></p><p>My cabin peaks at around 35 hz and using the dual Focal 33v2's in a stuffed and sealed 3.74 cu ft box seems to compliment that very well. Below 30, the drop off becomes rather steep like 6 to 8db. People compliment me all the time on how low it plays and the speed of the attack. I run them at 4 ohms to off an EVOPS 2400.1 which is more than enough.</p><p></p><p>Secondly, upgrading from dual 10's to dual 12's will give you more of the same using the same brand ann model and the same or more or less of something else, going to the RF box.</p><p></p><p>Additionally, going to higher wattage subs usually means a decrease in efficiency relative to the gains in cone area so it may be negated by that.,</p><p></p><p>The RF box you referenced is overpriced and poorly made of 5/8ths MDF. You'll never find anyone of merit using 5/8ths anything for any box.</p><p></p><p>There are many here that have explained what needs to be done for a substantial increase in both output and quality in an upgraded sub.</p><p></p><p>.75" MDF (min) or 13 ply birch with preferably a double or triple baffle is the place to start. Proper bracing is a must. Woofers and vents should fire from the same baffle either up or to the rear unless that cannot be done.</p><p></p><p>Good quality, high efficiency (relatively speaker-ing) in a well built enclosure will provide the best results if using a modestly powered amp, like yours, (1200 watts).</p><p></p><p>You are probably not going to get that in a prefab setup like the ones mentioned but if you must, take a look at the CT SOunds loaded boxes, for the money, I'd take them over the Skar or the RF products in that $350 to $400 price range.</p><p></p><p>If you are not willing to cut but can glue and screw, a pair of these will set you back about $420.00</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://nvx.com/collections/vc-series-car-subwoofers/products/vcw122-version-3-vcw122v3-2400w-peak-1200w-rms-12-vc-series-v3-dual-2-ohm-subwoofer[/URL]</p><p></p><p>You could order the GP audio 4 cu ft net box tuned to 29 or 31 hz for about $300 and using the 1200 watt amp you have, should be substantially better sounding and probably a few db louder than the current box.</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://gpcaraudio.com/12-dual-high-output-glue-it-screw-it-sub-enclosure/[/URL]</p><p></p><p>If you want to upgrade what you have to something that sound like a $1000 or $1500 sub that someone else builds (prefab & loaded), doing it yourself you still have to spend $750 to $1000 bucks, pretty much.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8888516, member: 689267"] If you run a sealed box, turn the HP (subsonic) filter all the way down or off. That filter is meant to assist in the prevention of over excursion and overworking of the driver in a ported box and has little to no impact in a sealed box. I prefer to stuff my sealed boxes as it sounds better. Not everything you hear is measurable. My cabin peaks at around 35 hz and using the dual Focal 33v2's in a stuffed and sealed 3.74 cu ft box seems to compliment that very well. Below 30, the drop off becomes rather steep like 6 to 8db. People compliment me all the time on how low it plays and the speed of the attack. I run them at 4 ohms to off an EVOPS 2400.1 which is more than enough. Secondly, upgrading from dual 10's to dual 12's will give you more of the same using the same brand ann model and the same or more or less of something else, going to the RF box. Additionally, going to higher wattage subs usually means a decrease in efficiency relative to the gains in cone area so it may be negated by that., The RF box you referenced is overpriced and poorly made of 5/8ths MDF. You'll never find anyone of merit using 5/8ths anything for any box. There are many here that have explained what needs to be done for a substantial increase in both output and quality in an upgraded sub. .75" MDF (min) or 13 ply birch with preferably a double or triple baffle is the place to start. Proper bracing is a must. Woofers and vents should fire from the same baffle either up or to the rear unless that cannot be done. Good quality, high efficiency (relatively speaker-ing) in a well built enclosure will provide the best results if using a modestly powered amp, like yours, (1200 watts). You are probably not going to get that in a prefab setup like the ones mentioned but if you must, take a look at the CT SOunds loaded boxes, for the money, I'd take them over the Skar or the RF products in that $350 to $400 price range. If you are not willing to cut but can glue and screw, a pair of these will set you back about $420.00 [URL unfurl="true"]https://nvx.com/collections/vc-series-car-subwoofers/products/vcw122-version-3-vcw122v3-2400w-peak-1200w-rms-12-vc-series-v3-dual-2-ohm-subwoofer[/URL] You could order the GP audio 4 cu ft net box tuned to 29 or 31 hz for about $300 and using the 1200 watt amp you have, should be substantially better sounding and probably a few db louder than the current box. [URL unfurl="true"]https://gpcaraudio.com/12-dual-high-output-glue-it-screw-it-sub-enclosure/[/URL] If you want to upgrade what you have to something that sound like a $1000 or $1500 sub that someone else builds (prefab & loaded), doing it yourself you still have to spend $750 to $1000 bucks, pretty much. [/QUOTE]
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