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<blockquote data-quote="smoka" data-source="post: 5744341" data-attributes="member: 606721">Wasted Ink is correct. First you protect the equipment, then you protect the wire. Its always safer to use a smaller fuse when you can.The current ratings listed for power wire are most likely the MAX load capacity that the wire can handle. But you want to use a fuse that matches your MAX load potential of the equipment and not the wire (unless equipment fuse &amp;gt; wire capacity then you need bigger wire).For example I have 2 amps, 1 with 3x40A (120A total) fuses and 1 with 2x30A (60A total) fuses. So at the distro block I have a 120A and 60A fuses for my 4ga wire which is a short run to the amps. Then at the 1/0 fuse at the batt I need to have at least 1 180A fuse. Closest I could get is 200A so that is what I use. 200A is lower than the wire MAX capacity so the wire is protected as well as the equipment.This is not just for car audio, its for electricity/electronics in general.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="smoka, post: 5744341, member: 606721"] Wasted Ink is correct. First you protect the equipment, then you protect the wire. Its always safer to use a smaller fuse when you can. The current ratings listed for power wire are most likely the MAX load capacity that the wire can handle. But you want to use a fuse that matches your MAX load potential of the equipment and not the wire (unless equipment fuse > wire capacity then you need bigger wire). For example I have 2 amps, 1 with 3x40A (120A total) fuses and 1 with 2x30A (60A total) fuses. So at the distro block I have a 120A and 60A fuses for my 4ga wire which is a short run to the amps. Then at the 1/0 fuse at the batt I need to have at least 1 180A fuse. Closest I could get is 200A so that is what I use. 200A is lower than the wire MAX capacity so the wire is protected as well as the equipment. This is not just for car audio, its for electricity/electronics in general. [/QUOTE]

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