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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Put LTO on stock electric.
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8875559" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>If you are going to replace the HU, then the AC unit is not needed. As to which are good to use, I like the Kenwood Excelon, Sony, Alpine and Pioneer - they all do very well. You will want to do some research on what you want from the HU and determine what suits you needs and budget. That will changes everything here as almost all decent HU's come with 4V outputs.</p><p></p><p>Most upgraded HU's will also have a dedicated mono output that has the R/L summed so the L/R signal issue is solved for the subs as well.</p><p></p><p>If you're amplifier has a single input, that is fed by a new HU with a mono output, no need to combine dual mono outputs or combine L/R outputs to one unless you don't have the mono output in the first place.</p><p></p><p>If the amplifier has 2 inputs, then you do want to use both inputs by using dual mono outputs or splitting a single mono output to 2 or using the R/L full range to both the imputes as this will impact the overall voltage input and in turn will affect the amplifiers output.</p><p></p><p>Againl, if you have a single input on the amp, then combine L/R to one if you don't have a mono subwoofer output as this will sum L/R and give you signals for the subs from both channels as opposed to one.</p><p></p><p>Be careful with internal electrical and charging modifications to an alternator, not a path I would advise. Stay with what voltage the car is designed for (not talking about amperage output), use compatible battery upgrades that are within tolerances and you will be fine.</p><p></p><p>You're getting a bit ahead of yourself with all that. I run a 5000 watt system off the factory 110A alt and use a Glow Voltage (LiFepo) Lithium bank in the rear of the car and A Bosch AGM under the hood, 1/0 big three upgrade and that is it. Adding 1/0 +/- runs from front to back and an extra short ground at the 2nd battery location is all you should ever need with the system you are using. The other electrical modifications you are proposing are only not necessary but will take you down a path that is expensive with no benefits at all for a system under 10K output, just don't do it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8875559, member: 689267"] If you are going to replace the HU, then the AC unit is not needed. As to which are good to use, I like the Kenwood Excelon, Sony, Alpine and Pioneer - they all do very well. You will want to do some research on what you want from the HU and determine what suits you needs and budget. That will changes everything here as almost all decent HU's come with 4V outputs. Most upgraded HU's will also have a dedicated mono output that has the R/L summed so the L/R signal issue is solved for the subs as well. If you're amplifier has a single input, that is fed by a new HU with a mono output, no need to combine dual mono outputs or combine L/R outputs to one unless you don't have the mono output in the first place. If the amplifier has 2 inputs, then you do want to use both inputs by using dual mono outputs or splitting a single mono output to 2 or using the R/L full range to both the imputes as this will impact the overall voltage input and in turn will affect the amplifiers output. Againl, if you have a single input on the amp, then combine L/R to one if you don't have a mono subwoofer output as this will sum L/R and give you signals for the subs from both channels as opposed to one. Be careful with internal electrical and charging modifications to an alternator, not a path I would advise. Stay with what voltage the car is designed for (not talking about amperage output), use compatible battery upgrades that are within tolerances and you will be fine. You're getting a bit ahead of yourself with all that. I run a 5000 watt system off the factory 110A alt and use a Glow Voltage (LiFepo) Lithium bank in the rear of the car and A Bosch AGM under the hood, 1/0 big three upgrade and that is it. Adding 1/0 +/- runs from front to back and an extra short ground at the 2nd battery location is all you should ever need with the system you are using. The other electrical modifications you are proposing are only not necessary but will take you down a path that is expensive with no benefits at all for a system under 10K output, just don't do it. [/QUOTE]
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