Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Protection light on suddenly
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="da_guitarist" data-source="post: 3239039" data-attributes="member: 579537"><p>I have a 99 Mercedes CLK430. It has a factory Bose system. I installed an Alpine R 12 and a Power Acoustik A2100D mono amp. As for wiring, here's what I did:</p><p></p><p>New Amp:</p><p></p><p>-Power/fuse from + battery term (4 gage, 80 amp fuse)</p><p></p><p>-Ground to bolt that battery is grounded to (4 gage)</p><p></p><p>-Remote from blue/white bose amp remote (18 gage, tap spliced)</p><p></p><p>-Speaker signal from grey/brown cables to rear deck sub, post bose amplifier (tap spliced 18 gage into rca plug input)</p><p></p><p>-12 gage speaker wire from amp output to sub enclosure</p><p></p><p>I was running the amp (2100w max) at only 30% or less with the amp gain knob, and it was kicking fairly hard, but nothing ridiculous or seemingly dangerous. Worked great for a while (only hooked up 1 day)...then suddenly it stopped working after a 20 min ride. the Protection light is coming on and I get no sound out to the sub. The sub isn't scratchy and shows 4.2 ohms w/ a voltmeter. So i think the sub's good</p><p></p><p>At first I thought maybe it's a ground problem with the input being amplified first and at a higher level than the chassis ground of the amp. Not so sure now. This is where it gets tricky:</p><p></p><p>I tried to fade the signal to the rear speakers using the head unit, and there is NO sound from the rear speakers now?! I wonder if the bose amp doesn't like this...or if i could have blown the rear speakers(bose factory "subs" on rear seat deck)?</p><p></p><p>When I get a chance, I'll rewire it to the INPUT wires to the bose amp (from head unit) and see what happens. Please don't tell me about my equipment *******. I put only about $170 total in parts and install items.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="da_guitarist, post: 3239039, member: 579537"] I have a 99 Mercedes CLK430. It has a factory Bose system. I installed an Alpine R 12 and a Power Acoustik A2100D mono amp. As for wiring, here's what I did: New Amp: -Power/fuse from + battery term (4 gage, 80 amp fuse) -Ground to bolt that battery is grounded to (4 gage) -Remote from blue/white bose amp remote (18 gage, tap spliced) -Speaker signal from grey/brown cables to rear deck sub, post bose amplifier (tap spliced 18 gage into rca plug input) -12 gage speaker wire from amp output to sub enclosure I was running the amp (2100w max) at only 30% or less with the amp gain knob, and it was kicking fairly hard, but nothing ridiculous or seemingly dangerous. Worked great for a while (only hooked up 1 day)...then suddenly it stopped working after a 20 min ride. the Protection light is coming on and I get no sound out to the sub. The sub isn't scratchy and shows 4.2 ohms w/ a voltmeter. So i think the sub's good At first I thought maybe it's a ground problem with the input being amplified first and at a higher level than the chassis ground of the amp. Not so sure now. This is where it gets tricky: I tried to fade the signal to the rear speakers using the head unit, and there is NO sound from the rear speakers now?! I wonder if the bose amp doesn't like this...or if i could have blown the rear speakers(bose factory "subs" on rear seat deck)? When I get a chance, I'll rewire it to the INPUT wires to the bose amp (from head unit) and see what happens. Please don't tell me about my equipment *******. I put only about $170 total in parts and install items. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Protection light on suddenly
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list