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Proper Door Sound Deadening and You
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<blockquote data-quote="JimJ" data-source="post: 1284316" data-attributes="member: 555251"><p>Butyl rubber based products, such as RAAMmat and SS, will do fine up to 300 degrees or so before failing...can't say the same about asphalt based ones.</p><p></p><p></p><p>A ton of sound is lost through holes in the door panel, if that's what you mean...make sure to seal all the holes in the door by covering them in several layers of deadener and making sure the door is as airtight as possible. You want the only opening in the door to be where the speaker is.</p><p></p><p></p><p>When I install my mids, I'm going to run new wires, might as well...have you tried electrical fish tape or using a piece of coathanger to fish the wire through?</p><p></p><p></p><p>Imaging will depend on the vehicle, but yeah - keeping the tweet close to the mid and in the same plane is usually recommended.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="JimJ, post: 1284316, member: 555251"] Butyl rubber based products, such as RAAMmat and SS, will do fine up to 300 degrees or so before failing...can't say the same about asphalt based ones. A ton of sound is lost through holes in the door panel, if that's what you mean...make sure to seal all the holes in the door by covering them in several layers of deadener and making sure the door is as airtight as possible. You want the only opening in the door to be where the speaker is. When I install my mids, I'm going to run new wires, might as well...have you tried electrical fish tape or using a piece of coathanger to fish the wire through? Imaging will depend on the vehicle, but yeah - keeping the tweet close to the mid and in the same plane is usually recommended. [/QUOTE]
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Proper Door Sound Deadening and You
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