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Problems with BTL setup
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<blockquote data-quote="RamenNoodles" data-source="post: 4326357" data-attributes="member: 577202"><p>Hey all,</p><p></p><p>Today I just got my 12" BTL and my Crunch GP3000D along with my custom box and I installed everything today and to be honest I am not impressed with this subwoofer at all.</p><p></p><p>Like when the subwoofer hits, it sounds like it is bottoming out and I dont understand why. I use to have 2 12w6v2s to a JL 1000/1 and it was hitting WAY harder than my 12" BTL. I just met my friend who I sold my w6s to and he was running them to a Kenwood amp pushing 600rms to them and they were slamming compared to my BTL.</p><p></p><p>I just am not impressed with the performance of the BTL at all. It cannot pick up anything high at all. I know it is a SPL sub, but I have read tons and tons of peoples reviews saying that it actually had decent clarity.</p><p></p><p>I used my dB meter that I have and my best on the 12w6v2s was 147 no sound deadening whatsoever. Now I have my whole trunk competed in FatMat in 1 layer and 2 layer on my trunk. I did a test today and the best I got was 135 WTF??</p><p></p><p>Does anybody have any idea what is going on?</p><p></p><p>Well the sub is wired to 1 Ohm.</p><p></p><p>I have stock electrical besides an optima red top. I have a tsunami wiring kit 1/0awg. All in a 2000 accord coupe with the sub and port facing toward the cabin.</p><p></p><p>These are the builders specs.</p><p></p><p>Ok, here is the design for you. 14.5"H x 24"W x 24"D, 3.809^3ft gross vol. Slot port, 13" x 3" x 27.8"Long@35Hz. After all displacement, 2.833^3ft net yield. Built from 3/4" Hi-Composite Premium UDF board. Seams matched and double sealed. Reinforced baffle board. Dado cut end caps. Seams fastened with Tite Bond glue, 1-5/8" counter sunk drywall screws, and 2" Ribbed steel fasteners. Walls fully braced and tied in with Maranti Hardwood bracing for Zero wall flex and 100% cabinet integrity. 45 degree boards in the corners to kill standing sound waves and to add extra strength to the corner seams. All internal port edges are beveled. High Quality, Gold plated binding post with nylon heads. Gray Muzicon carpet. White baffle board. Port painted black</p><p></p><p>And this is NOT a TermLab so its not exactly term lab numbers, I think it runs a little high.</p><p></p><p>THis is a quick drawing of how everything is wired...</p><p></p><p><a href="http://img168.imageshack.us/my.php?image=79661090xr2.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/2612/79661090xr2.th.png" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RamenNoodles, post: 4326357, member: 577202"] Hey all, Today I just got my 12" BTL and my Crunch GP3000D along with my custom box and I installed everything today and to be honest I am not impressed with this subwoofer at all. Like when the subwoofer hits, it sounds like it is bottoming out and I dont understand why. I use to have 2 12w6v2s to a JL 1000/1 and it was hitting WAY harder than my 12" BTL. I just met my friend who I sold my w6s to and he was running them to a Kenwood amp pushing 600rms to them and they were slamming compared to my BTL. I just am not impressed with the performance of the BTL at all. It cannot pick up anything high at all. I know it is a SPL sub, but I have read tons and tons of peoples reviews saying that it actually had decent clarity. I used my dB meter that I have and my best on the 12w6v2s was 147 no sound deadening whatsoever. Now I have my whole trunk competed in FatMat in 1 layer and 2 layer on my trunk. I did a test today and the best I got was 135 WTF?? Does anybody have any idea what is going on? Well the sub is wired to 1 Ohm. I have stock electrical besides an optima red top. I have a tsunami wiring kit 1/0awg. All in a 2000 accord coupe with the sub and port facing toward the cabin. These are the builders specs. Ok, here is the design for you. 14.5"H x 24"W x 24"D, 3.809^3ft gross vol. Slot port, 13" x 3" x 27.8"Long@35Hz. After all displacement, 2.833^3ft net yield. Built from 3/4" Hi-Composite Premium UDF board. Seams matched and double sealed. Reinforced baffle board. Dado cut end caps. Seams fastened with Tite Bond glue, 1-5/8" counter sunk drywall screws, and 2" Ribbed steel fasteners. Walls fully braced and tied in with Maranti Hardwood bracing for Zero wall flex and 100% cabinet integrity. 45 degree boards in the corners to kill standing sound waves and to add extra strength to the corner seams. All internal port edges are beveled. High Quality, Gold plated binding post with nylon heads. Gray Muzicon carpet. White baffle board. Port painted black And this is NOT a TermLab so its not exactly term lab numbers, I think it runs a little high. THis is a quick drawing of how everything is wired... [URL="http://img168.imageshack.us/my.php?image=79661090xr2.png"][IMG]http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/2612/79661090xr2.th.png[/IMG][/URL] [/QUOTE]
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