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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Slaugh" data-source="post: 5202188" data-attributes="member: 560795">first of all, make sure the wires behind the dash are really in touch with the speakers terminals... you can do that with a dmm, setting it to read Resistance (or impedance, in such case)... do that connecting the multimeter terminals to the wires exposed... if the wires have contact with this speaker terminals, it should read, on the dmm, something close to the speaker impedance...another way to do that is connecting the speaker wires directly to a 1.5v AA battery you have (it doesn't have to be brand new, just have a small charge on it)... it should make a "pop" sound and the speaker cone should move inwards or outwards, depending on if the polarity is normal or inverted in the situation... if you connect the positive (+) terminal of the battery to the positive terminal of the speaker, and the negative of the battery onto the negative of the speaker, it should move outwards, indicating polaritys are correct... if the cone moves inwards, then polarity's are inverted...the battery's a way to check both if connections are solid, and if speaker polarity is correct... the negative aspect, in this case, is that you need a quiet room (or at least having your windows shut), to hear the speaker's pops, in case you can't see the minimal excursion the AA battery will cause them (let's say the grills over the speakers make it impossible to see them moving)... the positive aspect of using a dmm is that you can check it on a noisy enviroment, as you can read the results on the lcd screen of the multimeter...please note that the battery test is to be done ONLY with a small amperage battery (DO NOT use your car battery or any similar for this test)... be careful because direct current can damage your speakers, specially the tweeters, which can't handle as much power or distortion as a subwoofer, for example... i've done this procedure with all sort of speakers, and i've never had any damage occured to them.. but, again, let me endorse it should only be done with a small amperage battery, such as a 1.5v AA battery...well, enough of testing shit today for you... if your speakers are properly hooked up, then search the Menus (my bad, i don't know how it works on newer Alpages), to find an option called PWR-IC, or something similar to it... it should be clearly stated on the manual on how to get to it... what it does is turning off the internal amplifier of the head-unit... it should only be disabled if you're NOT using the amplified outputs of the deck, which isn't the case...if speaker connections are tested and good, and this option is enabled, then i'd say it's a bad head-unit warness, or a faulty head-unit (damaged internal amplifier ie)...good luck!</blockquote>

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