Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Equipment
Speakers
Power handling of Dayton Audio components
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Sizzlechest" data-source="post: 8674260" data-attributes="member: 661234"><p>Wow, these Taramps look awesome, just about every dyno I've seen they output way over than their rating. I am no Soundstream fanboy by any means, I went with them originally because the price was/is right and I remember they were good back in the day, but I don't think they are what they used to be. For roughly the same price I can get Taramps and get smaller form-factor amps that are more efficient and output more power, seems like a no-brainer.</p><p></p><p>DS 800x4 = <span style="color: #111111">544W RMS (4 x 136W RMS) @ 4 ohms</span>. With this I will be pushing an additional 60 watts to each of my mids and highs, nearly double. </p><p></p><p>HD 3000 = 3000W RMS (1 x 3000W RMS) @ 1 ohm. With this I am tripling the power going to my sub, possibly more as it is doubtful my current amp is outputting 1000W.</p><p></p><p>I have a few questions:</p><p></p><p>1. When you say 'dont use all 3000W', I thought the gain isn't really a 'wattage-knob', it only controls how hard the amp is listening to the source. How would I go about setting the gains without blowing my speakers? </p><p><span style="color: #c0392b"><strong>Edit: I found a video for how to set the gain using a multimeter (sq root of watts * ohms)</strong></span></p><p></p><p>2. The 4 channel does not have a frequency adjustment in the cross-over, only a control for LPF/FULL/HPF. Will I need an external crossover to feed my mids and highs? My current amps have a frequency control and I am also using a coil as a LPF on my mids. </p><p></p><p>3. I currently have a custom mounted pot to control the level of my sub (remote bass control on SS amp), the sub amp by Taramps does not appear to have this, only a jack for monitoring things. Is it possible to build this custom into my RCA lines?</p><p><span style="color: #e74c3c"><strong>Edit: Just found this: <span style="font-size: 12px">PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller</span></strong></span></p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: 14px">4. Will my stock battery + alt be enough to run these amps, even if I am only feeding my sub say 1000-1500 watts? I've read that these amps can catch fire if the voltage drops too low.</span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Sizzlechest, post: 8674260, member: 661234"] Wow, these Taramps look awesome, just about every dyno I've seen they output way over than their rating. I am no Soundstream fanboy by any means, I went with them originally because the price was/is right and I remember they were good back in the day, but I don't think they are what they used to be. For roughly the same price I can get Taramps and get smaller form-factor amps that are more efficient and output more power, seems like a no-brainer. DS 800x4 = [COLOR=#111111]544W RMS (4 x 136W RMS) @ 4 ohms[/COLOR]. With this I will be pushing an additional 60 watts to each of my mids and highs, nearly double. HD 3000 = 3000W RMS (1 x 3000W RMS) @ 1 ohm. With this I am tripling the power going to my sub, possibly more as it is doubtful my current amp is outputting 1000W. I have a few questions: 1. When you say 'dont use all 3000W', I thought the gain isn't really a 'wattage-knob', it only controls how hard the amp is listening to the source. How would I go about setting the gains without blowing my speakers? [COLOR=#c0392b][B]Edit: I found a video for how to set the gain using a multimeter (sq root of watts * ohms)[/B][/COLOR] 2. The 4 channel does not have a frequency adjustment in the cross-over, only a control for LPF/FULL/HPF. Will I need an external crossover to feed my mids and highs? My current amps have a frequency control and I am also using a coil as a LPF on my mids. 3. I currently have a custom mounted pot to control the level of my sub (remote bass control on SS amp), the sub amp by Taramps does not appear to have this, only a jack for monitoring things. Is it possible to build this custom into my RCA lines? [COLOR=#e74c3c][B]Edit: Just found this: [SIZE=12px]PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller[/SIZE][/B][/COLOR][B][SIZE=12px][/SIZE][/B] [SIZE=14px]4. Will my stock battery + alt be enough to run these amps, even if I am only feeding my sub say 1000-1500 watts? I've read that these amps can catch fire if the voltage drops too low.[/SIZE] [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Equipment
Speakers
Power handling of Dayton Audio components
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh