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Power drop at remote wire
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<blockquote data-quote="Deiimos" data-source="post: 8774857" data-attributes="member: 682903"><p>One thing to keep in mind is, the main power wires you installed (red / black 4 gauge or whatever size it is), anyway, it passes high current from the battery straight to the amp. This wire simply can’t show 5 or 6 volts unless it has a bad connection somewhere along its run. Typically at the terminals and or fuse holder. Or heavily overloaded to where it is ready to catch fire.</p><p></p><p>If something were shorted pulling those 4 gauge wires down to 6v, you would be passing huge current through them with that much voltage drop and you would blow a fuse or melt your wiring, neither seems to be happening so a bad connection and or fuse is a more likely culprit.</p><p></p><p>Looking at the voltage your meter is showing, 4.69v, it’s got to be a bad fuse / holder, or a faulty connection somewhere. A bad amp just can’t cause this, they either blow fuses or just don’t work right, but it isn’t going to pull the 4 gauge wire from 12v to 4v without popping a fuse or getting super hot in the process. I don’t think it is an amp problem based on what I’m seeing.</p><p></p><p>Post photos of your wires where they connect to ground, and to the battery, what kind of terminals are on the red / black wires, also some of the fuse holder, and close up of the fuse you are using.</p><p></p><p>I don't belive your remote wire has anything to do with the problem. To test just the remote wire, unhook it at the amp, and measure it by itself with the head unit off / on, if you get roughly 11- 12v, it's plenty to turn the amp on. Black meter probe at the amps ground terminal or cars chassis, red meter probe on just the remote wire disconnected from the amp.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Deiimos, post: 8774857, member: 682903"] One thing to keep in mind is, the main power wires you installed (red / black 4 gauge or whatever size it is), anyway, it passes high current from the battery straight to the amp. This wire simply can’t show 5 or 6 volts unless it has a bad connection somewhere along its run. Typically at the terminals and or fuse holder. Or heavily overloaded to where it is ready to catch fire. If something were shorted pulling those 4 gauge wires down to 6v, you would be passing huge current through them with that much voltage drop and you would blow a fuse or melt your wiring, neither seems to be happening so a bad connection and or fuse is a more likely culprit. Looking at the voltage your meter is showing, 4.69v, it’s got to be a bad fuse / holder, or a faulty connection somewhere. A bad amp just can’t cause this, they either blow fuses or just don’t work right, but it isn’t going to pull the 4 gauge wire from 12v to 4v without popping a fuse or getting super hot in the process. I don’t think it is an amp problem based on what I’m seeing. Post photos of your wires where they connect to ground, and to the battery, what kind of terminals are on the red / black wires, also some of the fuse holder, and close up of the fuse you are using. I don't belive your remote wire has anything to do with the problem. To test just the remote wire, unhook it at the amp, and measure it by itself with the head unit off / on, if you get roughly 11- 12v, it's plenty to turn the amp on. Black meter probe at the amps ground terminal or cars chassis, red meter probe on just the remote wire disconnected from the amp. [/QUOTE]
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